Prabal Gurung’s last trip home to Kathmandu inspired the designer to change directions for Fall/Winter 2014. For the upcoming season, Gurung adopts a global message that blends smart tailoring with the homespun charm of native Newar costuming. Although the designer is known primarily for his red carpet gowns, he demonstrates his versatility by showing looks that were far more démodés than any previous collection. Shades of Sonia Rykiel can be felt in his stiff knit sweaters, which were a hodgepodge of textures and shades. Next came a series of cozy cashmere blanket/capes that swaddled his sweater-and-skirt combinations in an extra layer of warmth.
Although the presentation was rooted in downtown sophistication, Gurung expressed the style of the streets with scenery-printed trousers and pants featuring a glitzy swirl of abstract brushstrokes. As the show progressed, Gurung’s technique became more complicated and creative. His particular genius was in modifying and modernizing the overlapping construction and drape of Nepal’s indigenous haku patasi costume. The results were collage-like, rendering a potpourri of floral prints, silk paneling, and crisscross asymmetry into curvy, luscious eveningwear. For Fall/Winter 2014, Gurung is able to weave together his past with fashion’s future for an effect that is animated, vibrant, and refreshingly unique.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway