Paris Fashion Week Coverage: Viktor & Rolf Spring 2014 Couture

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Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s second presentation following a 13-year hiatus from the world of couture was perplexing, to say the least. Having forgone the traditional army of models, they sent members of the Dutch National Ballet down the runway instead. As the ballerinas tiptoed closer to the cameras, frizzy hair covering their faces, I for one couldn’t help but think of The Addams Family’s Cousin It coming to life in a music box.

Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images

Hair and makeup, however, were only one part of the off-kilter equation. What at first glance seemed like sweet pastel-colored skirts and crop tops were in fact dresses with skin-colored panels and sleeves. What looked like a draped piece of cloth held in place by a tattoo of a bird was in fact hanging from a skin-colored dress printed with the bird motif. Throughout the collection, birds, bows, and ribbons seemed to hold garments in place magically. The designers, who are big fans of mind games, worked almost exclusively with latex, reducing the harsh fabric into a soft, feminine one, which in turn allowed them to create all sorts of strange silhouettes. A startling departure from the world of haute couture, this collection was a perfectly executed lesson in the art of trompe l’oeil and, as such, it was very on pointe.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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