The first of rule of being cool is that you can’t try too hard, and last night’s Saint Laurent show treaded an incredibly fine line in that respect. The show opened with moving triangular light installations hung high above the runway – inarguably cool. But was what followed, perhaps, too cool for school?
A red, sequined, zebra-print dress was cinched at the waist by a black bow, while a flame-covered top was paired with a black-and-white striped mini – make that tiny – skirt. Skin-tight leather and leopard-print skirts were worn with sheer shirts and an irreverent, rebellious attitude that resonated in the models’ fast-paced, hand-in-pocket walk. But wasn’t the house’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, one of the first designers to shock the industry by sending sheer clothing down the runway?
Look closer and you’ll find that this collection was actually perfectly YSL à la Hedi Slimane. In the words of Pierre Bergé, the late designer’s lifelong business partner, “Chanel gave liberation of the body to women, and Saint Laurent gave power to women with the men’s clothes”. Indeed, there were plenty of menswear-inspired pieces in this collection. Infused with Slimane’s rock aesthetic and slim tailoring, which had become a signature of his during his tenure at Dior Homme, these included tuxedo jackets, button-up shirts, bowties, and skinny ties. While he may have done a great job at translating the house’s codes and paying tribute to the 80s and 90s, are we wrong to expect a little bit more from one of the most buzzed-about designers of our decade?
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway