Paris Fashion Week Coverage: Viktor & Rolf Spring 2014 Collection

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Schoolgirl cool gets a rebellious, deconstructionist update from the masters of Parisian avant-garde, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. Apropos of the anti-authoritarian message comes a backing soundtrack covering Pink Floyd’s “Another Brick in the Wall” and creatively reworked school uniforms.

The show opens with a flirty one-shoulder dress, mocked-up like a uniform with piping, buttons and wool fabric shown over cropped gauchos. Shrunken blazers, mid-length plaid skirts, and layered vests are all sensationally cool when punched up with trompe l’oeil piping. Pleating that resembled an accordion file showed up on wide, stiff skirts – a look that takes the classroom trope very literally. Better looks are loose collared shift dresses with step-down hems, babydoll button-up frocks, and tiny mini dresses that sported angry spikes. Imbued with a kind of “mean girl” attitude, the clothes are the kind worn by the flaxen-haired A+ student who rules the underground of the school with an iron fist. Her teachers and parents might not suspect, but she’s the terror of the boarding school social strata. Her parties are invite-only and she defies all the rules while appearing on the surface to be acceptably compliant. The Viktor & Rolf rebel schoolgirl knows that it’s better to be feared than to be loved. This belief is intrinsic to her even though she used the pages of her Machiavelli text to roll her cigarettes.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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