ACNE Studios’ rudderless direction has been captained with a strong hand by Jonny Johansson for Spring/Summer 2014. The presentation was slightly nautical, thoroughly Swedish, and mostly minimalist – a welcome return to ACNE’s raison d’être. For the upcoming season, the brand that attracts fashion’s ingenues and “It” girls spreads out an ocean of cool choices.
ACNE reinvigorates its aesthetic with a cool, simple collection for next season.
The palette is basic – showing mostly white, navy, and black with pops of yellow – but the clothes are creative and well-styled. Trousers, jackets, and sleeveless tunics feature punched-out cuts – the point where the tension of the line is cut by the laser results in strips of leather that sag and ripple in unpredictable ways. Save for some baggy shapes at times, most of the collection is crisp and smart. There are starchy blouses, lean striped suits, and boxy vests with exaggerated rows of buttons. Cozy oversized angora and knit sweaters will keep you warm if you’re on deck bracing against a cool blast of air from a Northeasterly, while plain anoraks and raincoats spray-painted with a cheerful watercolor effect offer protection from the elements as well. If you’re not setting sail, crunchy shirtwaist dresses worn over pants and sturdy blazers with striped paneling will get you through the day. For the latter half of the show, the designs are still astutely ascetic, but embellished with deconstructionist touches like asymmetrical, off-shoulder necklines and trousers with one pant-leg slit up the middle. Instead of going for bust, Johansson cleverly closes the show with a plain black single-buttoned suit, decorated with a scatter of embroidery in the shape of anchors. Moored no more, ACNE reinvigorates its aesthetic with a cool, simple collection for next season.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway