Haider Ackermann’s delicious draping and complicated layers made for the “handsome woman” were presented in peak perfection on the Paris runway. The Ackermann blueprint is instantly recognizable, but this season it is more refined and flawless than ever. The collection is wickedly cool – laidback and effortless while remaining visually interesting and artful.
For all the glitter, gloss, and gleam of Haider Ackermann’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, there is a dense menswear theme at work. If Ackermann had been David Bowie’s wardrobe assistant in the 1970s, these are the clothes we would have seen Ziggy wear. The clothes are edgy, sexy, and androgynous, done in a coruscated array of metallic fabrics. First on the list of must-haves from this collection (it’s a long list), are his skintight trousers in flashy shades of bronze, midnight blue, and eggplant. Next are his suits, which are languid and gleaming, and paired with spangled blouses featuring intense glitter. A completely transparent tulle maxi dress is gathered up and bunched at the waist to reveal black reptile skin shorts – a look both racy and refined. Billowing plissé maxi skirts, exquisitely revealing chiffon halter-neck gowns, and strappy Roman servant dresses are all visual masterpieces. Ackermann also provides two minimalist moments that act as a refresher after an intense palette of sparkling metallics – a plain black off-shoulder gown and a sleeveless jumpsuit. Fashion criticism is a subjective field that requires the ability to look into the future, but it doesn’t take a crystal ball to see that this collection will be worn by the world’s hippest “handsome” women come next season.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway