Roland Mouret has come a long way from the days when his clothing was closed with safety pins because the designer didn’t know how to make a buttonhole. For Spring/Summer 2014, his work is more technical and accomplished than ever, showing a bright palette of neons against a complicated patchwork of stripes and geometric outlines. Mouret has always designed affectionately for the women in his life, and presently the Mouret amie is showing up to gala events in clothes that eschew tradition for modern shapes and colors.
Taut PVC leather cut-outs were tailored together in a brilliant tapestry of hot pinks, teals, and sunflower yellow – the sinewy silhouette perfectly in keeping with Mouret’s mastery of the body-conscious cut. The designer also embraced a cagey kind of minimalism that blended textured swaths of black-and-white with monochrome separates; the results were angular with a hint of 80s overkill. Suspender-like straps ran underneath two-piece dresses, giving sensual shape to the fit. At times, jaunty sleeveless frocks were airbrushed with abstract florals, softening the rigid symmetry of the silhouette. For evening, Mouret overlaid lace patches in amoeba-like clusters over brightly colored dresses, and draped silks languidly over the frame of the body. A sporty mood infected this electrifying collection, giving a sense of play to the serious tailoring work Mouret accomplished for the season.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway
