On the third day of Paris Fashion Week, the movers and shakers of our industry sat eagerly awaiting the start of the Nina Ricci Spring/Summer 2014 show. Eighty years after the creation of the French fashion house, there had been talks of a new direction, a new message for the brand, and we couldn’t wait to discover it.
As the first model walked down the runway, she was accompanied by a sheer white curtain that followed her all the way up and back, creating a veil between both sides of the audience, setting the scene for an ethereal presentation. For the new season, Creative Director Peter Copping drew inspiration from menswear, borrowing elements and inserting them here and there on romantic, feminine pieces. The back of a waistcoat was placed on a jacket, while frills and lines from eighteenth-century redingotes – think knee-length jackets worn by men in the French royal courts – also made an appearance. Shirts were lengthened and, with the addition of frills, turned into sweet day dresses. Tweed, the heaviest of the fabrics used, was broken up by silver zippers for a lighter and more youthful feel. Flowing fabrics and a strict palette of whites and pale pinks and grays made for a very dreamy first half.
The garments that followed brought a burst of Sevres blue, floral-printed silks, and black lace. Throughout the presentation and in spite of the strong references to menswear, there was a very clear throwback to lingerie, which has long been a signature of the Nina Ricci brand. Lace-trimmed satin skirts and slinky lace-covered slips are two examples of such looks. In fact, contrary to expectations, this collection wasn’t a step in an entirely new direction and instead drew heavily on the house’s DNA, but that made it no less memorable – or covetable, for that matter.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway