All that shimmers is not gold, but all that is Lanvin most definitely shimmers. For Spring 2014, Alber Elbaz explored an impressive array of shiny, shimmery fabrics – 60 to be exact – that included lamés, laces, brocades, and tweeds. There were both loose and body-conscious dresses in jewel tones, light-catching satin skirts, and shimmering jackets fit for a Vegas performance. Shapeless dungarees cropped at the knee, full-metallic jumpsuits, and bin-bag looking parkas offered a sportier option for Lanvin’s patrons and contrasted with the more feminine silhouettes of the collection. Indeed, the signature Lanvin ruffles that we have come to know and love made an appearance on busts and hems. There were also a few menswear-inspired looks featuring – you guessed it – shimmering tux separates, blazers, and oversized bow ties. The most interesting pieces were made of stiff accordion pleats and seemed to move on their own accord, catching the light as the models walked.
All that shimmers is not gold, but all that is Lanvin most definitely shimmers.
Amidst all the shimmer, Elbaz also sent out five looks that, in contrast to the rest of the collection, could only be described as more plain. They were free of any shine, presented in either black or white, and perfectly tailored to fit and flatter the female form. Halter dresses, bustier details, and satin trousers were all cinched in at the waist by wide belts akin to the cumerband one would find on a tuxedo.
A Lanvin collection wouldn’t be complete without a good dose of oversized, kitschy accessories, and in that respect Elbaz did not disappoint. Huge crystal-covered hearts and star-shaped pendants hung from the models’ necks and adorned belts, while rows on rows of large jewels complemented the garments. While there was no sign of last season’s slogan necklaces, the word “Dream” was emblazoned on a few tops.
For all of its glitz, this collection can’t exactly be described as glam. Jagged wigs, mullet cuts, and dark tones allowed the presentation to retain a certain air of mystery, throwing the whole thing slightly off kilter. One could even go as far as to say there was little life in the models’ glazed-over stares. Was it a trick of the eye or an intentional detail? Only Elbaz himself knows the answer.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway