For his final act at Rochas before departing, designer Marcos Zanini’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection is presented as a sweetly composed swan song.
Marcos Zanini’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection for Rochas is presented as a sweetly composed swan song.
On the runway, a story unfolds – one that runs parallel to Tennessee Williams’ famous play, The Glass Menagerie, a cited influence of the collection. The tribute is subtle and symbolic. For instance, roses played a big role on the garments, appearing in a special foiled wallpaper motif. Williams’ sister is named Rose, and Rose’s personality was a heavy influence on Williams’ character Laura. Laura, with her dreamy nature and terror of the outside world, lives among a haven of glass animals and figurines. Symbolically, they reflect her delicate nature and the prison she has built for herself away from society, in isolation. The collection plays with a similar theme of escapism and fragility, showing old-fashioned silhouettes, shimmering garb and prismatic prints. Glossy spun-sugar knits have a reflective quality similar to Laura’s glass figurines, and Rochas’ brilliant custom fabrics juxtapose smooth surfaces against touchable textures. The cut of the garments is generous; the models appear at times to be little girls playing dress-up in their mother’s finest. A pastel palette helps carry this twee message forward. His puffy tulle maxi skirts possess a ballerina finesse, and his sparkly ruffled sleeveless frocks are as sweet as cake frosting. Zanini was wise to incorporate more mature silhouettes – his sheer jade green cardigan paired with a sparkling silver plissé-skirted slip dress is perfectly on-trend for Spring/Summer 2014. If sweet is more palatable to you than sour, Zanini’s saccharine collection will leave you sartorially satisfied.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway