Paris Fashion Week Coverage: Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 Collection

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When the global economy was thrown into crisis in 2007, the value of gold skyrocketed. Dries Van Noten’s gold-drenched collection seems to suggest that even when the luxury markets falter, there is one element that will stand against recession.

Photo: Courtesy of GoRunway

Dries Van Noten’s gold-drenched collection seems to suggest that even when the luxury markets falter, there is one element that will stand against recession.

Plainer, sturdier fabrics like linen and poplin were refined with ornate touches: smooth gleaming vests touched with snakeskin texture were worn underneath neutral trenches, a gold ruffled hem peeps out from beneath a heather grey blouse, and slim pencil skirts were given dazzling makeovers with 3D brocade embroidery. Van Noten also turns to richly textured tapestries to enhance his daywear offerings turning out sleeveless peasant embroidered tops with cowrie shell accents, knit sweaters with pom-pom hemlines and exotic jewelry flourishes. Though his silky floral motif returns to the runway, there’s nothing delicate about the blazing blossoms and their dark backgrounds. Rippling gills fan across later looks, giving them voluminous silhouettes that take a dose of daring to wear. Van Noten’s attention to detail can be appreciated up-close, with painterly details like gold dew drops on the model’s lashes and gold slashes of paint in their hair. Furthermore, his high/low juxtaposition of fabrics jolts us into paying closer attention – we’re dealing with a designer who exhaustively researches and painstakingly crafts his collection with the obsessiveness of a savant. There are no easy answers to daywear here, but rather an artist expressing the direction of Spring/Summer 2014 with interesting, intelligent looks that will appeal to the woman who prides herself on both intellectual merit and forward-thinking style.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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