Though Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi – co-designers for the present-day Gianfranco Ferré label – had the honor of working with the eponymous designer before his passing in 2007, their relationship wasn’t as closely hewn as Sarah Burton’s and Alexander McQueen’s. You’d never know this, given that Citron and Piaggi have not only adapted the prototype established by the famed “architect of fashion”, they have revived it better than their predecessors, Lars Nilsson, Tommaso Aquilano, and Roberto Rimondi. It took waiting through three designers and six years for the Gianfranco Ferré label to find its footing after the passing of Ferré, but this Spring/Summer 2014 collection represents an exciting direction for the label. It is with Ferré’s own words regarding the core aesthetic of his work that the nature of this collection is best reflected, “a mix of the romantically diffused and the precisely focused.”
This Spring/Summer 2014 collection represents an exciting direction for the label.
Securely underscored by structured, architectural silhouettes and a hint of 80s flair (a tribute to the label’s glory days), Citron and Piaggi incorporate modern-day touches that make this collection not only artfully arranged, but fantastically wearable. Stiff fabrics in a muted palette of neutrals took on the air of gentle ethereality as Citron and Piaggi folded them up like Asian origami. The Asian motif is repeated throughout the presentation, particularly visible in the oversized obi belts. The influence of the 80s was present in oversized and mannish high-waisted trousers worn with matching blouses and with pop-collared trenches. Citron and Piaggi tightened the reins on the silhouette by using concentric seams for structure and lapping layers to add dimension. Particular stand-outs are a jet-black double-zippered dress and a structured white dress with a jutting belt and cape-like hood. The palette adheres closely to neutral nudes, whites, and blacks, but deviates toward the end to incorporate acid green, taupe, pewter, and gunmetal – the latter two shades paying tribute to Ferré’s fondness for grey. We’re glad to see that the spirit of “l’architetto Ferré” is alive and well for Spring/Summer 2014.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway