After over 48 years at the creative helm of Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld has become a master at taking the house’s codes and reworking them into beautiful, modern collections. And there’s no telling what he’s going to do next.
Our first clue to this season’s theme was the invitation, which was made of geometric layers, precisely set over each other, in different shades of pink. When Cara Delevingne emerged on the runway in the show’s first look, essentially a human-sized replica of the invitation in gradient shades of sorbet orange, faces lit up in recognition and in anticipation of what was to come. What ensued was a perfectly crafted lesson in geometry.
The show notes made the inspiration behind the collection incredibly clear; “Graphics inspired by the world of informatics.” The most evident translation of this idea was a navy-blue, top-and-skirt combination, which had been cut with such tight and precise lines that it resembled a motherboard. Lagerfeld enhanced the different geometric shapes at play by layering them. Leather coats and jackets were made of geometric-shaped “flaps” placed over one another, while sheer crop tops were worn over dresses made from identical, gradient-colored layers. In spite of all the layers, the clean cuts, short hems, and use of organza kept the garments and looks incredibly light.
The next part of the show was a true testament to the know-how and craftsmanship of the House of Fendi. Perfect, precise laser cutouts allowed Lagerfeld to give more depth to the garments, notably simple toppers, skirts, and shift dresses. As the models continued to emerge from backstage, the sorbet colors of the first looks turned to brighter neons before giving way to a palette of dark navies and blacks. Never one to turn its back on its history as a furrier, Fendi also provides its patrons with a selection of fur coats for Spring 2014. These are made lighter for the warmer days of spring and summer with the help of see-through lines running through the material. The fur itself is given an incredible 3-D texture thanks to precise diagonal cuts in the material. The designers continue to play with layers and textures throughout the show, sending down a black-and-white, geometrically cut leather jacket that looks like a patchwork of different leathers and a series of perforated-plastic skirts and dresses layered over slips. In keeping with the digital inspiration of the collection, the silhouettes were very rigid, either falling straight at the models’ sides or with exaggerated, angular hips.
What the collection may lack in terms of easy wearability for our region, it more than makes up for in covetable accessories. This season sees the start of an incredibly promising collaboration between Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a rising star in the world of accessories and the daughter of Silvia Fendi. For Spring/Summer 2014, Delettrez has created a collection of stunning ear cuffs and knuckle dusters that marry her aesthetic, namely the eyes she’s become so famous for, with fur, a Fendi signature. Meanwhile, Silvia Fendi reworked some of last season’s clear winners for the new season. Geometric heels appeared on strappy sandals, while 2Jours bags bore the same geometric motif and degradé colors as the garments.
Fendi is clearly embracing the digital era, and we can’t wait to embrace Fendi come next season.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway