With the dominant color being black, this Gucci collection was, both literally and figuratively, darker than one would expect for the Spring/Summer season – and a fitting continuation of designer Frida Giannini’s darkly glamorous collection for fall. The majority of looks bore a swirling, two-tone pattern in an array of materials from jacquard to paillettes; at first dark pink and orange, which turned to bronze for the more evening-appropriate looks, then purple and pink, and finally blue and green. On the last looks, colors came together in a shimmering palette to create an almost holographic tone.
Athletic wear was the name of the game this season – but in an incredibly elegant way that only Giannini can master. For Spring/Summer 2014, she took sportswear to the next level and presented silk tracksuit bottoms and maxi T-shirts in perforated suede. The garments were loose and sheer for the most part, at times resembling kimono jackets and kaftans with billowing sleeves worn over black silk trousers or oversized pajama separates with huge lapels. Tops and dresses were cinched in at the hip by long black strings, which were left hanging down the sides of the models. In a way that only a handful of designers can achieve, the collection was sensual without being too revealing, and was flesh-baring in all the right places. Dresses stopped below the knees and shoulders were rarely bare, but slits ran all the way up the models’ thighs and some of the dresses were only tied together at the sides by a knot, the front and the back never touching, allowing the models’ sides to remain visible. When the tops were sheer or made of perforated material, Giannini paired them with bra/bikini hybrids that crisscrossed down the models’ torsos. The final look was a perfect translation of her Birds of Paradise gown from Fall/Winter 2013, with the same exquisitely detailed 3-D embellishments appearing down the front of a black, floor-length kaftan.
As for the accessories, the message was clear: Next season is all about draping fringe. The models wore maxi sunglasses and wet, slicked-back hair, almost as if they’d just emerged from a dip in the Mediterranean. Indeed, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection will fit perfectly in the suitcases of the world’s most glamorous women, worn around pools in the South of France or on the perfectly polished decks of mega yachts of the Caribbean.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway