Giles Deacon has always courted the dark side of fashion, but this season he’s more restrained than usual. That’s not to say he’s eschewing his affair with kitsch, however.
When Giles presents wearable frocks, it’s something of a marvel. His clothes have always attracted outliers in the fashion community, but Spring/Summer 2014 is one of his first collections to reach a more democratic audience. The show opens with silk screen-printed dresses depicting the work of photographer Glen Luchford. There is even, curiously, a print featuring Amber Valletta which was actually taken from a 1997 Prada ad campaign. Is this a case of art imitating art? He lifts another print, this time from The Rolling Stones “Sticky Fingers” artwork – printing that famous gap-toothed Jagger grin on frocks, sheer shirtwaist dresses and mini shifts. A luscious pink and purple print pops up, but Giles’ transient nature intervenes with any notion of sweetness – close up, they’re actually haphazardly arranged bat wings. The final portion of the show reveals body-conscious bodices and big feathered skirts, sheer dresses embroidered with a crackle of black crystal veins, and bat-shaped appliqués creeping up the top of the show closer’s hourglass silk gown.
Giles’ unpredictability is predictable in a good way – you don’t know what he’s going to take from the real world and turn into a fashion statement, but you’ll know it’s Giles because of its twisted sense of humor.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway