The floral trend is stronger than ever, but no designer has dared to do with flowers what Christopher Kane does for Spring/Summer 2014.
Innovation and Kane go hand-in-hand, and he pushes forward through “trends” and expectations every season to reach higher plains of high fashion. Fashion critics are already calling Kane’s latest efforts the best they’ve seen in years, but for those of us who have been in his corner all along, we expected nothing less than the best. To call it “striking” is to fall short – to call it memorable may be more accurate. Kane launches the show with a series of black suits, separates, and printed dresses each decorated with large teardrop cut-outs piped in leather. The result is both elegant and unexpected – here are classic wardrobe basics touched by the mighty craft of Kane. Flirty paneled sheer slip dresses make for a romantic little pause in the presentation, and then Kane turns the theatrics up to 11. First, there is a series of looks made from iridescent foiled fabric that is textured with wispy metallic tinsel, while lovely colors blend together like the kaleidoscopic swirl of a deep space nebula. It’s hard to picture the setting where these pieces would be wearable, but on the runway, they are dazzling. Soft sweatshirts emblazoned with the words “Flower” and “Petal” act as meta-commentary on the collection’s biggest inspiration, but the looks printed with actual diagrams of a flower’s parts (in case you forgot all about the difference between a pistil and a stamen) are literal to the point of being tongue-in-cheek. After Kane toys with silky beige Grecian dresses and flouncy skirts, he returns to the flower diagram to polish off the collection with a bright patchwork of prints, arrow patterns, and sheer fabric. While some designers splash their collections with flowers in appliqué and print form, Kane dissects them for us: He lays them bare on garments that are themselves works of fashion genius.
By the end of 2014, Christopher Kane will have his first flagship store, due in part to Kering’s new majority stake in the company. With that kind of backing, the possibilities for Kane’s future are endless.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway