The Emperor of Eveningwear, Antonio Berardi, expands his brand vocabulary to include enchanting daywear pieces for Spring/Summer 2014.
It becomes clear after flipping back through Berardi archives that he’s developed a very clear aesthetic; one that revolves around exaggerated sleeve volumes, crystal embellishment, knee-baring lengths and sculptural tailoring details. For the upcoming season, Berardi makes use of lighter fabrics and a dreamy confectionaire’s palette of pastel and blush pinks to bring a sense of spring renewal and twee innocence to the presentation. Instead of three-foot long crystal-scattered capes, he perfects the mullet-cut by showing it in double-paned chiffon that framed the legs like a billowing backdrop.
Berardi layered a crimson bralet underneath a sheer pink blouse with drop-shoulder bishop sleeves. He paired this sensual look with a high-waisted, knee-length skirt that was outfitted with a floor-sweeping side panel. He also showed completely sheer pants, stylishly recast varsity tops, color-blocked skinny trousers, and sporty separates featuring foiled metallics over sheer fabric. Even as the palette shifts from blush pinks and tomato reds to darker hues, the looks remain light. Berardi uses such a delicate touch in tailoring the presentation that the featherweight motif itself becomes one of the central tenets of the collection. For evening, bubbly crocodile textured tops in glossy black, crystal-scattered sleeveless jumpsuits, and tri-colored mullet-hemmed frocks closed the show. It takes a lot to keep an exhausted crowd interested, especially at a 9 a.m. show, but the buzz after the fact carried out onto the streets of London’s Financial District. There’s no need to comb this show for single takeaways – each look is an absolute keeper.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway