Mary Katrantzou proffers a meta-meditation on footwear for her blissfully rainbow-colored Spring/Summer 2014 collection.
The three acts of the show can be divided up into the three overarching shoe types that influenced the show: a brogue, a plimsoll, and an evening slipper. At times, the translation was clunky (a first for Katrantzou), with opening looks printed with very clear and close-up prints of a brogue shoe. Unless you’re really into brogues, this look is far too out-there to appeal to most women. When Katrantzou lightens up on the literal and lets abstract-thinking take over, the show improves by leaps and bounds. Redemption is quickly found in Katrantzou’s cleverly constructed sleeveless gown with the brogue print slashed into a meticulous and motile fringe. The next act fares even better with a printed jacket made from whipstitched panels of curving, printed leather leading the way. Her collaged-together prints play up visual trickery, lending the garments texture where there is none.
Tailored tops and trim trousers are just a canvas for her artistic touches. Slim, mini dresses and bell-shaped frocks come in a truly gorgeous array of color pairings and floral prints, while ruffled silk busts add more volume to already voluminous silhouettes. The color palette of jewel tones and the Swarovski crystal details are just what the collection needed to make it ready for the red carpet.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway