London Fashion Week Coverage: Marios Schwab Spring 2014 Collection

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For Spring/Summer 2014, Marios Schwab presents his signature soigné style with an artful twist.

He begins with a basic curve-hugging dress silhouette, but adroitly conveys a creative mood by touching up the fabric with airbrushing that mimics charcoal sketches of the nude female form. Schwab’s tops and dresses aren’t made from uniform pieces but are sliced and stapled together with thin metal tabs, giving a Frankenstein-esque feel to the apparel. For instance, his slim mini dresses are offset with stapled-on sleeves that were slit from stem to stern underneath and touched with tiny cut-outs along the shoulders. Although smooth and linear, this detail makes the viewer want to take a closer look.

A tiny capelet adds a sense of drama to a basic LBD, but the real technical prowess comes from webbed trousers made from adjoining microscopic circles. Later, this same material wraps curiously around the bicep of a model wearing a basic black frock. It’s a foray into creative minimalism that relies on microscopic textural details to recreate classics in a more innovative format. This fine-point design extravaganza continues with a figure skater’s sequined bodice covered with a long sheer black maxi dress and accented with white leather holsters, a comely dress featuring frothy chiffon sleeves that jutted perpendicular from the body, and indigo denim cobbled together in frayed sections. Schwab’s shining moment comes later in the show when powerful statement trenches with bold flipped-up collars caused a supremely elegant Grecian column dresses comprised of softly pleated fabric, and daintily bejeweled details that point from throat to sternum.

A good collection gives us what we want; a great collection makes us take a second, asks us to discover something new, and challenges the status quo. That said, Marios Schwab Spring/Summer 2014 is a great collection.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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