While some designers toil away at perfecting either form or function, Jean-Pierre Braganza easily marries both in his gorgeous, adaptable collections.
On his Spring/Summer 2014 runway, angular asymmetrical tailoring, sporty luxe separates, and grayscale prints are hemmed tightly by a controlled palette of black, baby pink, and fuchsia. This is structure sans rigidity, and the results are wildly chic. The Braganza girl is tough, but femme – the kind of girl who can wear a casually draped and loosely folded frock in pale pink and still not back down from a confrontation. Implacably cool, short-sleeved frocks are blasted with abstract and floral prints done up in inky black whorls, with the fabric sectioned together and bonded by stern black borders. One gleaming silk shirtdress with tuxedo lapels is particularly eye-catching, while a printed tracksuit looks positively sophisticated for maybe the first time ever. This type of riff on menswear and sportswear keeps the pace of the show unpredictable – you never know what Braganza is going to do with a standard blazer or a basic trouser. A graduated maxi dress with an aisle-wide train swept past the front row to many nods of approval, and his remaining eveningwear looks were simple and seductive. With Braganza leading the way, London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2014 is off to a strong start.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway