New York Fashion Week Coverage: Marchesa Spring 2014 Collection

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Pleasure and pain evoke a mood of gothic romance at Marchesa for Spring/Summer 2014.

Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images

We’re not talking about “gothic” in a black-eyeliner-listen-to-The-Cure sense. Instead, gothic returns to its 18th century roots, when well-bred, fatuous femme fatales fell for unlikely Byronic anti-heroes.

Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, the design duo behind Marchesa, cut away the excess, frothy weight of previous collections and focused on a more sinewy and seductive silhouette. They trussed up our doomed romantic heroine in gossamer silks, chantilly lace, and organza, and prettied her up in blurry, springtime floral prints and a pastel palette. The presentation may have seemed innocent and gamine on the surface, but a quick look at the models as they took their turn on the runway revealed a shocking contrast to all the pretty frocks at the foreground: the models’ arms were inked by famous tattoo artist Scott Campbell. It’s a fashionable notion to juxtapose pain and pleasure, and the fantasy Marchesa constructs this season shows the brand’s capability of evolving. Its tried-and-tested formula has been a brilliant red carpet success, and chance-taking this season will only further Marchesa’s reach with celebrities and VIPs that are looking to take loveliness to a new and unexpected level.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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