After a decade at Calvin Klein, designer Francisco Costa decides to take the label in a more avant-garde direction, but minimalism still reigns at the renowned house of Klein.
We’ve come to expect extremely scaled-back looks from Calvin Klein in tones of nude and neutral, but this time the unexpected occurred – the palette moved fluidly from neutral to brighter hues like Kelly green and blush pink. There were even looks collaged together from overlapping swaths of printed fabric.
The collection was livelier because of the color, but also because of the wild texture choices.
The collection was livelier because of the color, but also because of the wild texture choices. It’s as if Costa took the collection and zapped it with exposed electrical wire, causing hems to fray and fringe to sprout in unusual places. It was Calvin Klein, but deconstructed. Costa smartly accented the presentation with a variety of visual hooks like asymmetrical hemlines, exposed seams, origami folds, and oversized/boxy silhouettes. Like most designers at New York Fashion Week, Costa showed bandeau tops and high-waisted skirt pairings, but his skirts were so high that they came up past the ribs and bumped up against the bottom portion of the bandeaus. There were also skirts made of netting enhanced by colorful fringe, candy-colored accents on neutral knit tops, and trousers with side panels of frayed fabric. Calvin Klein’s déshabillé, chic adventure brilliantly allowed the designer to keep within the lines of the brand’s blueprints while experimenting with new and exciting ways to bring creativity to the collection.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway