Proenza Schouler transcends trends for a self-possessed collection that brings artistic expression to wearable activewear.
Looks on the Schouler runway are polished and sophisticated, but imbued with a touch of artisan craft. Jackets and overcoats are finished with closures that resemble marching band uniforms – a tidy way to tie up the orderliness of the clothes. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez repeat the use of wide pants similar in style to a samurai’s hakama throughout the show, trading them in occasionally for suede skirting and gorgeous maxi skirts shot through with metallic threads. At times, tops are voluminous and slightly bulky, featuring exaggerated, sloped shoulders, but the silhouette is consistently tight around the waist. Instead of a racy crop top, Proenza Schouler’s version is wrapped and controlled, showing the design duo’s intelligent approach to spring’s favorite trend. Many of the looks are given vivid allure when presented in a blown-up fiber print that resembles haphazard slashes of paint on a canvas, inspired by the Arte Povera movement, and the brand’s suiting sports hand-painted lines that work like a reflective trompe l’oeil. Suede is also a favored fabric, and looks especially chic on a bow-fronted sleeveless tunic with cropped oversized trousers in dark red. Eveningwear features starry gowns that gently sparkle and swish, providing a dreamy counterpoint to the sturdier daywear garments shown. Though Proenza Schouler is typically strong in the accessories department, the duo scales back its presentation to reveal only a few bronze sculptured statement necklaces and chunky shoes. With a take on fashion that’s reliably forward-looking, Proenza Schouler can always be counted on to keep us pointed toward the future.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway