Altuzarra’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection takes an out-of-left-field approach to the sexy, utilitarian trend we’re seeing at New York Fashion Week, and the results are phenomenal.
Even with Kering recently acquiring a minority stake in the brand, the collection is oddly less commercial than you’d expect, but Joseph Altuzarra has always been staunchly nonconformist. This quality makes him a consistent one to watch at Fashion Week, and this season he’s giving us odd pairings that marry together a variety of disparate effects – Western fringe, “ladies-who-lunch” traditionalism, and even athleticwear. The show begins with a series of striped silk blouses, unbuttoned to the waist and with the drape of a particularly elegant pair of pajamas. Altuzarra pairs these languid tops with mid-length skirts that defy proper description; they are sackcloth-waisted, folded at the top, slit up the side, and hemmed with a whipping fringe. Fringe is big on the Altuzarra runway; it’s on every skirt and there is even a fully-fringed Western blouse. The color pairings are so strange that they work in spite of their mismatched quality. In this collection, for example, you’ll find dandy stripes complemented by surprising touches of pastel. There are several times when the designer puts forth tone-on-tone layers, and other times when the layers shift between monochrome neutrals, stripes, and pastels. Altuzarra’s elaborate ponchos sporting contrast graphic stripes are perhaps the most exciting pieces in the collection, but his liquid metal jackets and skirts also possess plenty of allure. Even for all of the head-scratching looks, the way each separate detail is executed speaks volumes about Altuzarra’s prowess. For Spring/Summer 2014, let your preconceived notions fall away and step into the easy, sexy utility of Altuzarra’s strange and thrilling collection.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway