New York Fashion Week Coverage: Helmut Lang Spring 2014 Collection

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Helmut Lang revisits its classic masculine tailoring technique for a Spring/Summer 2014 collection that is modern and clean.

The brand has always had strong associations with this type of structured tailoring, but this time around the evidence of modern art’s influence is strong. Michael and Nicole Colovos, inspired by the artist Wade Guyton, translate geometric abstraction to fashionable ends for their latest collection. After last spring’s color explosion, the duo is back to the Lang blueprint with a palette of mostly neutrals with a splash of hot pink for spice. The palette is punched up with blurry geometric shapes and graphic enhancements like sheer overlays decorated with wide white rectangle patterns.

With your body as the canvas, you can become a walking work of modern art.

Sharp tailoring is carried out with clinical precision – even the kimono-like jackets and trenches on the runway are cut with blunt, crisp lines. Their focus is so keen with their stalwart sheath dresses and leather bib tops that some of their softer pieces almost go unnoticed. However, the unstructured tuxedo jacket they sent down the catwalk deserves a second look; it’s a smooth, beautiful piece that will add a dash of dandy charm to your Spring/Summer 2014 wardrobe. Amid the staunch tailoring and rigorous cuts are some surprising details: cutouts and sheer fabric gave us a peek at the female form that, elsewhere on the runway, Lang’s designers preferred to hide under a boxier silhouette. The design duo also works in ample amounts of asymmetry to keep the surface tension of their garments visually interesting. There are off-kilter lapels, one-shoulder dresses with origami-folded skirts, and hot pants paired with sweaters to topple our sense of proportionality. Helmut Lang’s approach to shape and size comes from an artist’s perspective. With your body as the canvas, you can become a walking work of modern art, tagged with a coveted Lang signature.

Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway

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