In fall of 2007, Viktor & Rolf shocked its ready-to-wear crowd with a collection that placed lighting rigs and speaker systems into the body of its clothes – thus, making each model into her own walking runway. This is just one example of the duo’s ability to think abstractly and metaphysically about fashion; there has always been a conceptual angle to their collaboration. Viktor & Rolf’s couture line is officially revived after a 13-year hiatus, just in time for the duo to celebrate their 20th anniversary. They wanted the flexibility to explore the conceptual side of their label, but we hardly believe for a second that they ever stopped doing that in the first place.
The concept of their Fall 2013 Couture presentation was mindfulness. They transformed the stage into a Japanese rock garden, opened the show with a dual meditation session, and turned the models into ‘stones’ in the garden after their turn on the runway. Looks were folded and rippling, suggesting organic movement and serenity. Of note here is that the presentation had no variation in the color palette. It was all black, made with the same pliable fabric – a silk that was sturdy and springy and capable of holding shapes that defy immediate explanation. There were shirt dresses, capes, skirts with gathered hemlines, and frocks with asymmetrical hems that dipped severely to the side. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were careful not to sacrifice wearability for the sake of art, and each look was accessible, if lofty, in design.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway