Jean Paul Gaultier’s cinematic collection for Fall 2013 Couture places powerful women in center stage. Gaultier does this by warping and distending the silhouette such that hips and shoulders bow out like a reflection in a funhouse mirror. He also employs richly saturated shades of black, red, and gold along with a dizzying array of animal prints. Big cat prints are just a top note – an immediate signifier that connects us to Gaultier’s powerful predator narrative. In your world, if ‘cougar’ is a diminutive moniker, he aims to turn it into an adjective of praise.
His outerwear proves to be the strongest selling point of the presentation. There are trim jackets with mandarin collars and leopard fur cuffs, cozy funnel-necked toppers, mustard-colored leather blazers, fur-lined leather capes complete with oversized hoods, even coats bursting with multi-colored marabou feathers. Following looks show several corrugated, curving separates that look like they belong in a stylistic sci-fi film. Many of his ensembles are kaleidoscopic, cobbling together multicultural origins, a rainbow-like display of colors, and a mash-up of fabrics and textures. There is a greater sense of control at work in this presentation than in previous couture seasons, and we hope to see Gaultier develop more adornment for his powerful vixenish muse, without the added baubles and distractions.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway