For most, couture means red carpet-worthy gowns dripping with sequins and expensive hand-embroidery and topped with fur. In Bouchra Jarrar’s world, couture is crafted with wit, talent, and rigorous adherence to a minimalist aesthetic. In a sense, she turns our notions of couture inside out and explores the possibilities of taking a simple piece, like a tunic-length vest or a simple silk gown, and transforming it into looks befitting the lofty status of couture.
Jarrar’s pin-neat, picture-perfect trousers are already sought after by fashion elite, but she enhances them this season with loops of delicate chains across one hip. This lends edge to ensembles that are already midriff-baring and leather-clad. There is an Urban Warrior mood to the presentation, relayed by the tightly twisted drape of tribal-looking tops and tough leather jackets and vests. However, this type of urbanity is often associated with street style wear, and this is a far more superior and sophisticated version if it could be said to be near the category of street style at all. As tough as the first half of the show is, lean shapes, flowing silk gowns, and flapper-esque loose slip dresses quickly take things in a more feminine direction. For the fall season, Jarrar’s nude, black, and cream collection offers a myriad of contrasting looks, from the masculine to the feminine, from the sensual to the sophisticated.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway