The Alexander McQueen aesthetic – under both McQueen himself and Sarah Burton – has always contained something savage. This snarling undercurrent retains a sense of regality when worked and molded by the skillful hands of Burton, but the intensity of McQueen has quieted to a whisper this season. For Resort 2014, Burton imagines a more relaxed approach to daywear. Her presentation incorporates the use of tougher fabrics like canvas cotton and patchwork denim, and her shapes suggest a safari stroll or camping at a hippie festival around a roaring bonfire. There are crocheted dresses and bohemian vests with halter-necks alongside oversized ponchos and printed, cropped flared pants. While much of the collection symbolically follows the type of clothes popular in the 1940s, when women stayed home to toil in the stead of soldiers who had been packed off to attend to the war in Europe, there are plenty of relaxed 60s looks to mix up the message.
This is perhaps the most down-to-earth collection we’ve seen from Alexander McQueen in some time, but the season calls for it. McQueen collections are rarely so practical; things like Lucite cage dresses just don’t mix with jetsetting and adventure, and Burton acknowledges this with a collection that travels well and wears beautifully. However, she doesn’t abandon McQueen standards and even manages to work within the standard McQueen framework – if there could be said to be such a thing – with wasp-waist silhouettes. For McQueen’s Resort 2014 collection, it’s sturdy separates, breezy frocks, and crocheted gowns that translate the seasonal message.
Photos: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen