When Jonathan Anderson joined Loewe in the creative directorial chair, fashion connoisseur heads turned in excitement. The industry’s most influential names had long been singing his praises as one of the most innovative talents presenting uncompromisingly attention-worthy ideas on the runways, season after season. Anderson, the courageous and experimenting mind in the hot seat, did not disappoint, and throughout his short career with the company, has already reformed and re-energized the heritage Spanish brand.
Creating desirability is one of the most discussed topics in fashion of our times, and in an era where “It” bags no longer exist, new designs flood the market in a bid to win over hearts — a feat Anderson has proved effortless with his witty designs and quality craftsmanship.
To celebrate his sparkling talent, impeccable execution, and craftsmanship, we introduce the behind-the-scenes of the production of a modern icon, the new classic ‘Puzzle’ bag.
The ‘Puzzle’ bag is the first new bag designed by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, and was first introduced in June 2014 at the Men’s SS15 collection presentation in Paris. Since its launch, it has also been part of the Women’s collections.
For the Fall/Winter 2015 season, the Puzzle was presented in dégradé tones of blue, green, and pink suede, and also available in an extra large size for men and a large size for women.
Used mostly in the prototyping process rather than production, sketches are the main reference, with pertinent information about the bag. In most cases, the patterns are treated as confidential documents due to their details on the production of the style.
The Leather Innovation
The Leather Innovation Center is an investigation area where artisans not only work with classic leathers, but also develop new, innovative techniques and finishing. Their area of focus is finding the right material for each product.
The below image demonstrates the process of cutting leather with a laser machine. This location is the sole cutting center in the world (except for exotics), where all the pieces for the bags are cut off before being assembled. The artisan work is crucial to ensure the most perfect quality of cutting is achieved throughout the process.
This is the area where every single piece of leather is separated, split, glued, and embossed with the anagram before the assembling. The Puzzle bag is composed of 41 different leathers, 9 textile pieces, 45 cloth armors, plus the metallics and zippers.
The assembling of just one bag requires 524 different actions. All the sewing is done by hand by the Loewe artisans, who work in the factory located in the outskirts of Madrid. In the atelier, the assembling of each prototype requires three days in total.
In production lines, the estimated time for completing each of the bags is 530 minutes (nearly nine hours).