Daniel Roseberry Presents His Most Wearable Collection Yet for Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
Paris Fashion Week
Daniel Roseberry Presents His Most Wearable Collection Yet for Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024
by Grace Gordon 4-minute read March 1, 2024

This is a brand that loves to shock. But, the most shocking thing at Schiaparelli this season is how minimal it was. And maybe that's not a bad thing.

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When does heat translate to sales? Among the fashion-obsessed, Schiaparelli is a much more coveted and talked-about brand than houses with a similar heritage. Its prices are high, its distribution is still quite small, and it’s only present in a few select stores right now – Harrods in London being perhaps its most successful. Yet, with the recent introduction of ready-to-wear and a public commitment by its owner, Diego Della Valle, late last year to expand to roughly 40 stores, it looks to be on the verge of scaling up. 

Maybe that’s why the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 show at Paris Fashion Week represented the most wearable collection Daniel Roseberry has designed yet. Case in point: it opened with Mona Tougaard in a simple relaxed suit. If it weren’t for a row of anatomy buttons on the sleeve and the house’s signature Face bag, you would scarcely have believed it was Schiap. Extremely pared-back looks continued down the runway: an actual Canadian tuxedo (double denim? At Schiaparelli?), a new form of cargo pants with thigh pockets facing toward the front rather than the side, wooly plaid coatdresses, and body-conscious dresses with simple, graphic trompe l'œil details. The stuff of dreams has given way to reality.

In Roseberry’s show notes, he was very clear that he intended to meet the wardrobe needs in the “daily lives of our clientele.” The brief seemed to be to pull back on the tricky silhouettes and the radical ornamentation of previous collections and simplify. But does it still hit the way it used to?

Of course! It’s Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli! He is probably our greatest living designer! Even when he goes simple, it’s still extraordinary. I’ll be thinking about that wickedly beautiful ivory mohair double-breasted coat, those shocking, surreal braided hair neckties (yes, they are exactly what they sound like), and that high-gloss croco-effect embossed amber leather suit for weeks to come. Simple does not have to mean ordinary. Schiaparelli’s women are intellectuals, socialites, CEOs, and celebrities. They are the women that other women want to be. It is simply beneath them to be caught in anything less than head-turning looks. Therefore, Schiaparelli’s codes remain intact throughout the collection. There are anatomy fastenings, keyhole details, bright gold buttons, maximal sculptural jewelry, furs embedded with corsets, and lithe fits to keep the intrigue coming.

The truth is, you can’t just put Kylie Jenner in one of your looks and call it a day. You have to sell. This comes with scaleable strategies, sustainable growth plans, and a whole lot of other really boring business talk. But if there is any brand out there I think deserves to surpass its competitors, it’s Schiaparelli. Now, instead of just being an avant-garde house where dreams are manufactured, it's a house that manufactures reality. And that is a saleable strategy. 

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The stuff of DREAMS has given way to REALITY.

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