Gucci Does Dark Glamour with an Embellished Edge for Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
Milan Fashion Week
Gucci Does Dark Glamour with an Embellished Edge for Fall/Winter 2024
by Grace Gordon 4-minute read February 24, 2024

A fresh injection of glamour sets Gucci on the right path.

gallery look 1
gallery look 2
gallery look 3
gallery look 4
gallery look 5
gallery look 6
gallery look 7
gallery look 8
gallery look 9
gallery look 10
gallery look 11
gallery look 12
gallery look 13
gallery look 14
gallery look 15
gallery look 16
gallery look 17
gallery look 18
gallery look 19
gallery look 20
gallery look 21
gallery look 22
gallery look 23
gallery look 24
gallery look 25
gallery look 26
gallery look 27
gallery look 28
gallery look 29
gallery look 30
gallery look 31
gallery look 32
gallery look 33
gallery look 34
gallery look 35
gallery look 36
gallery look 37
gallery look 38
gallery look 39
gallery look 40
gallery look 41
gallery look 42
gallery look 43
gallery look 44
gallery look 45
gallery look 46
gallery look 47
gallery look 48
gallery look 49
gallery look 50
gallery look 51
gallery look 52
gallery look 53

Last night I saw a clip of this gorgeous fashion show on TikTok. “Wow,” I thought, “That’s so beautiful. I wonder who designed it?” It turns out it was from Sabato de Sarno’s sophomore womenswear collection for Gucci Fall/Winter 2024. While the looks were instantly appealing, it wasn’t immediately clear what house they were from, and therein lies Gucci’s central problem. In marketing the quiet luxury vision (with an embellished edge – quite literally), it runs parallel to similar visions from other houses. The identity is in the middling stage of being set, still a little wobbly but nonetheless convincingly amalgamated to point to a promising and delicious future. 

This is not a rude criticism of de Sarno’s work, mind you. I’m not one of those people who thinks a designer has to get it “right” straight out of the gate. I appreciate the evolution, one that becomes evident season after season. Roughly a decade ago, I accused Jonathan Anderson of silhouettes in his solo collections that “struggled against the female form.”. Now look at him! I like where de Sarno is headed with Gucci, I’m just not sure I fully see the identity yet. 

With his predecessor’s cult of personality to contend with, de Sarno has a tough task of bringing his creative dreams to life in a way that is both wholly his own and still Gucci. We are starting to see it coalesce. Big, splashy logos are gone, loud prints have evaporated, and vintage magpie aesthetics are out the window. In their place, we find a grown-up, sexy wardrobe that feels both modern and familiar. It’s where de Sarno pumps up the collection’s unctuous glamour that the looks succeed the most. 

It starts with simple silhouettes. Trim bodysuits and long dresses with fitted bodices, embellished outerwear worn with matching layers. The bottom layers get more stripped back as the collection marches forward, with wooly carcoats worn with slinky lingerie-style slips featuring lacy busts. Zoom in a little closer and you’ll notice rich fabrics, sumptuous colors, and delicately adorned paillettes. Bulky coats are treated to gorgeous woven textures and glossy patterns. The collection also has some beautiful knits paired with matching micro mini dresses. Sexy. Simple. 

With the radically difficult schedule modern designers are faced with, the one thing they need the most and don’t seem to have is time. They need time to say who they are, to sell that identity, to get consumers on board with it. In the interest of protecting creatives at all costs and in protest of the system’s frequent habit of eating them alive, I’m fully on the side of giving de Sarno the time to find his footing. He’s already halfway there. 

article article

It’s where de Sarno pumps up the collection’s UNCTUOUS GLAMOUR that the looks succeed the most

Share This Story
Look 28 from Balenciaga‘s Fall 2022 Couture collection CHANEL | SAVOIR FLAIR HUBLOT | SAVOIR FLAIR