Hits and Misses at Dior Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
Paris Fashion Week
Hits and Misses at Dior Fall/Winter 2024
article LAURA SCIACOVELLI / DIOR
by Grace Gordon 4-minute read February 28, 2024

No pun intended.

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article

Catherine Dior, or Miss Dior as she is often known, is Christian Dior's sister and someone whom the world is getting much better acquainted with thanks to the recently launched show The New Look on Apple TV+ in which she is played by the talented Maisie Williams. Dior was so fond of his brilliant, daring sister that he named his first perfume – Miss Dior – after her in 1947, and the name has continued to be called upon by the house for decades since. For Fall/Winter 2024, Maria Grazia Chiuri literally splashed the name across her looks. But something tells me that the real Miss Dior wouldn't have been terribly fond of the transparent name-dropping in this collection. 

I get it, I do. The desire to create something splashy in the vein of logomania that the fashion-hype crowd would want to wear (or at least be seen wearing on social media). The desire to create a potentially viral moment. Forgive the pun, but the Miss Dior branding was a miss. It entirely eclipsed the rest of the collection and went viral for all the wrong reasons. That's the real crux of the argument: that the collection had some d*mn good pieces in it, and no one is talking about that part.

Let's back up. Season after season, Chiuri centers her show around a solid feminist thesis, always in partnership with a female artist. The show space, decorated with beautiful, fragile frames created by Mumbai artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, spoke to the "fighting power of a woman's body." Immediately, I was drawn to this idea and reminded of this profound monologue delivered by a character in Fleabag, "Women are born with pain built in. It's our physical destiny: period pains, sore boobs, childbirth, you know. We carry it within ourselves throughout our lives. Men don't." We watch men try cramp simulators on TikTok and laugh as they writhe in agony at Level 4, all while seated at work desks with smiles on our faces enduring Level 10 pain at least once a month. We have learned how to handle extreme levels of pain – spiritual, emotional, and physical – without ever fatiguing, complaining, or taking a day of absence. The theme resonates strongly on an intellectual level but fails to make the same impact in the actual collection.

Instead, the collection focused its attention on the Swingin' 60s, a notable era for fashion that saw the liberation of women from rigid silhouettes and long-skirted strictures. It also happened to be the decade that saw the launch of the Miss Dior line by Marc Bohan and Philippe Guibourgé. It was Chiuri's task to translate these ideas into liberated ease of wear, and she did that proudly. Suiting was long and louche with trousers that often rested low-slung on the hip. Trenchcoats were modified into crisp separates, outerwear was ample and roomy, and graphic patterns added a certain zippiness to more buttoned-up ensembles. Meanwhile, modish shifts and separates, touched with tactile whipstitching, nailed the 60s inspo while still feeling current. For evening, disco fringe, gilded mesh, and minimalist gowns decorated with maximalist embellishment stood out. The clothes themselves were a hit, it's just too bad they were overshadowed by a Miss.

article article

 Forgive the pun, but the Miss Dior branding was a MISS. It entirely eclipsed the rest of the collection and went viral for all the wrong reasons

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