Without Further Ado, the 10 Best Shows of the Fall 2024 Season | Savoir Flair
Fashion Week
Without Further Ado, the 10 Best Shows of the Fall 2024 Season
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by Mimi Droeshout 5-minute read March 8, 2024

A recap of the best collections from the four fashion capitals.

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Balenciaga

Demna infused the Fall 2024 Balenciaga collection with a fresh blend of hardcore DIY ethos and a dash of playful humor, showcasing items like beaded animal-print gowns and innovatively styled trench coats as a rebuke to the oversimplification of fashion to mere trends. He underscored the collection's depth with a typed inventory of his inventive designs — ranging from hoodie-dresses to "hip-aulette" gowns and clever accessories like see-through beanies — highlighting his commitment to originality and wit in design. This approach encapsulates Demna's exploration of the true essence of fashion beyond the confines of marketing-driven simplicity, asserting a powerful statement on creative expression and style individuality.

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Chloé

Chemena Kamali's Chloé debut reinvigorated the brand with a mix of sunny nonchalance and the playful spirit reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s era, all while drawing deeply from the late 70s for inspiration. Highlighting a collection that wove together the historical threads of Chloé’s past — from Gaby Aghion's founding vision to nods towards previous designers like Phoebe Philo — Kamali showcased a range marked by oversized bags, luxurious yet understated accessories, and garments that blend natural femininity with a modern, effortless edge — and most importantly, that classic Chloé flou. Kamali’s personal connection to Chloé (she began her career at the maison as part of Philo’s team and later rejoined as Design Director to Clare Waight Keller in 2012) shone through, presenting a collection that not only paid homage to the brand’s roots but also catapulted it into the present with items that speak directly to the contemporary woman’s desire for style with an array of accessories to dream of for this coming fall. 

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Coach

In the historic setting of The James B. Duke House, Coach's Fall 2024 Collection, under Stuart Vevers's creative eye, became a vibrant homage to New York City's heritage with a fresh, youthful counter-culture. Vevers masterfully reimagined urban luxury, merging the ruggedness of workwear with quintessential American classicism, through street-cast models donning an array of leather, denim, and uniquely tailored pieces — think double-breasted leather trenches, oversized hoodies, and tuxedos unconventionally paired with loungewear. The collection not only showcased Coach's famed leather in new accessories like the New York collection and the redesigned Empire Carryall and Tabby bag, but also celebrated NYC's iconic imagery with playful charms and a daring blend of formalwear with streetwear, encapsulating the city's eclectic essence. Vevers's Fall/Winter 2024 collection for Coach was an artful ode to the city that never sleeps, capturing its dynamic pulse in every garment and accessory, redefining urban luxury with a clear nod to individuality and self-expression.

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Diesel

Glenn Martens continues to redefine the fashion playbook at Diesel, opening the Fall/Winter 2024 show with a mix of digital democratization and backstage access, inviting the public into the brand's inner workings like never before. This season, Diesel's runway transformed into a parade of techno beats and distressed denim, merging the subdued with the maximalist in a tribute to rave culture and community spirit. Martens' genius shone through in every detail, from animal and floral prints with a gritty edge to a vibrant display of graphic body-con dresses and fur-trimmed jackets, cementing his reputation for turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. Diesel's latest outing was a revolutionary moment for the brand that celebrated inclusivity, innovation, and the sheer joy of fashion.

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Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis continues to redefine Ferragamo with statement outerwear, luxurious leathers, and captivating dresses, marking his tenure with a bold reimagining of the brand's classics for Fall 2024. The collection, awash in a deep olive green, featured impeccable tailoring with a twist — think double-breasted blazers reworked with drop waists and sculpturally contorted jackets, alongside a mix of tactile leather ensembles and gossamer gowns accented with unexpected fabric strips. Davis's use of being able to play seamlessly with material shone through in latex-look sets adorned with feathers and paillette-covered goth mermaid dresses, truly showing Ferragamo's craftsmanship.

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JW Anderson

Jonathan Anderson delves into the psychology of dressing with JW Anderson's Fall 2024 collection, transforming British life's mundane into a runway spectacle — think dressage rosettes reimagined as fashion pieces. The collection challenges daily sartorial habits through a lens of distortion and informality, stretching and twisting familiar forms into new expressions. With a focus on robust knits and reinterpreted basics amidst exaggerated proportions, Anderson's work invites a fresh perspective on the ordinary, making a bold statement on the reflective process of getting dressed. The narrative and collection blends the beauty of everyday British quirks with a thoughtful exploration of fashion's role in personal identity and expression.

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Loewe

Away from his namesake brand and over at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson's latest collection crafted a narrative of serenity and simplicity against the clamor of modern life, drawing inspiration from the late American painter Albert York. With a mix of British aristocracy and outdoor whimsy, the runway showcased everything from metal straw lapels and chintzy floral drapes to massive parachute pants adorned with garden veggies, all underpinned by the meticulous craftsmanship Loewe is known for. Anderson masterfully balances the past with the future, bringing traditional forms with unexpected details like caviar beads on bags and vegetable-print blouses, offering a fresh take on personal expression and wardrobe versatility.

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Marni

Under the arches of Milan's Stazione Centrale, Marni unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a creative rebirth conceived by Francesco Risso in a studio swathed in blank paper, embodying a journey back to fashion's raw essence. Guided only by a Virginia Woolf quote advocating for unburdened creativity, the show became one of discovery, urging attendees to shed preconceptions and embrace Marni's new universe with open minds and hearts. From the initial monochrome designs to bursts of color and kaleidoscopic prints, Risso's collection evolved through conservative cuts, chaotic prints, and sculptural forms, marking a bold departure into Marni's reimagined world — a world free from fashion's past constraints, inviting all to experience joy in its purest form.

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Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha, known for her evocative design language, wrapped her thematic trilogy with 'The Wake' at London Fashion Week's Fall 2024 showcase, set against the backdrop of the storied St. Bartholomew the Great church. Seamlessly continuing the narrative from 'The Dress Rehearsal' and 'The Wedding' for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture, 'The Wake' marries mourning with celebration, breathing life into Victorian mourning dress and reimagined blooms encased in tulle, reflecting Rocha's signature gothic romance. This collection not only highlighted Rocha's couture craftsmanship but also her flair for dramatic storytelling, with models adorned in floral eyebrow bouquets, making a bold statement on beauty and rebirth.

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Tory Burch

At the New York Public Library's Astor Hall, Tory Burch revealed her Fall 2024 collection, celebrating two decades of American design evolution with a lineup that challenges sartorial norms through imaginative use of materials like sequined fringe and paper leather. This collection, interweaving the practical with the magical, redefines female domestic symbols — from shower caps to vinyl bodysuits — into chic, modern staples, showcasing Burch's ability to blend everyday functionality with a whimsical touch. With a vibrant palette and innovative accessories, Burch invites us into a world where the ordinary transcends expectation. 

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