Acne Studios Returns to Its Roots for Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
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Acne Studios Returns to Its Roots for Fall/Winter 2024
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by Grace Gordon 3-minute read February 29, 2024

The Matrix meets mob wife.

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For those newly anointed to the cult of Acne Studios, all of the leather at its Fall/Winter 2024 show was a surprise (not so much the denim, which it is well-established for). But for those of us who are diehard, longtime fans of Acne Studios (and we count ourselves among them), we can recall the early days of the brand in which one of the shows was literally called "Leather and Denim." While many would see this minimalist, gothic turn as a new direction for the brand, Fall/Winter 2024 was actually a return to its core principles. 


Granted, it's a lot more stripped back than it has been in recent seasons, but with its sleek Trinity-in-the-Matrix style molded leathers, mob wife furs, cropped knit bustiers, and bunched-up skirts and column dresses, it reaches a sophistication level that is universally appealing. But not often universally wearable. The body-conscious battle the fashion industry has been waging the past few seasons and the disappearance of so many full-figured women from the runways definitely suggests a return to the 90s body type – the era in which Acne Studios was born. Regardless, when it comes to the house's commercial line, i.e., the stuff that actually ends up in stores, they are far more democratic with sizing than most of their peers. Don't let all of those leggy bodysuits fool you. In real life, you'd be wearing them with pants (Even though a certain out-of-favor rapper did declare 2024 as the year of no pants. Don't listen to him. Actually, no one ever should.). 

As always, outerwear was a strong point, especially in the case of coats with flyaway collars – as if the wind had caught them and they'd flown up into your face. It suggested a woman in a hurry, someone with somewhere important to be. There were also suede sheath dresses with tote bag tops embedded in the bodice for the woman-on-the-go that can't be fussed to swap bags to match her outfit. The perfect bag is built-in. And, of course, there was leather, treated with a waxy coating that almost made it resemble leather – a perfect melding of the house's early codes. 

Finally, if you spied some especially ominous set pieces, they come courtesy of Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo. Assembled as Chairs in Rubber, these sinister thrones were actually an innocent composite of rubber tires. Their meaning? A manifest declaration of Acne Studios' enduring fascination with materials that speak of both resilience and revolution. You guessed it! Denim and leather. These elements, woven into the collection with mechanical precision, presented an ultra-modern narrative that felt both immediate and innovative.

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While MANY would see this minimalist, gothic turn as a new direction for the brand, Fall/Winter 2024 was actually a return to its core principles

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