Shampoo followed by conditioner is the most basic haircare step, but it can still be tricky to work out how often you should wash your hair to keep it in optimal condition. For most people, leaving your hair unwashed for too long makes it gets limp and greasy. Then again, shampooing too often can cause frizzy, dry strands. So what’s the happy medium? Here, three hair experts get back to basics and offer their advice on how frequently you should lather up.
Why Do We Wash Our Hair?
“We wash our hair to keep the scalp in good condition, promote healthy hair growth, and give good movement and body to the hair,” says Stephanie Sey, a trichologist working in association with Nizoral. When you do not wash your hair frequently, you get a build-up of dead skin cells, sebum (natural scalp oil), sweat, pollution, and fungus such as malassezia.”
It’s important, therefore, to wash away the nasties on your scalp, then follow up with conditioner to restore moisture through the lengths of the hair. “Shampooing lifts the hair shaft cuticle during cleaning, while the conditioner smoothes it down for combability, protection, and shine,” says hairdresser Michael Van Clarke.
Assess Your Individual Needs
“Unfortunately, I can’t give you a magic number that will solve all your hair-washing woes. However, at the very minimum, you should wash your hair at least once a week,” Sey advises. She recommends paying particular attention to your hair and scalp to determine when it needs cleaning. “How quickly does the hair become greasy? Is your head itching? Is it flaking a lot? Once you’ve figured these things out you, should schedule your wash a day or two beforehand. For example, if your hair becomes itchy on day nine of not washing it, you should wash it on day six or seven so it doesn’t get to that stage.”
“Every individual is different,” agrees Johanne Herald, senior master stylist at Charles Worthington salons. “Some wash every day or more due to workouts or working in polluted cities, while some wash as little as once a week. I would recommend a thorough scalp-analysis consultation at a salon. This is to access if the client is using the correct techniques and products on their hair and scalp.”
Choose Your Products Carefully
The shampoo and conditioner you use can have a big impact on how your hair reacts when washed. “The most common complaint we see is oily roots and dry ends,” Herald continues. “It’s easily caused by washing hair just once too roughly, putting conditioner all over, and the water being too hot – we all do it when rushing in the morning. To rectify this, simply swap your shampoo for a balancing one, like the Kérastase ‘Bain Divalent’. Next, apply a light conditioner to the mid-lengths and ends, then rinse thoroughly and do a cool rinse to close the pores to stop oil coming through as quick.”
While brands might recommend pairing their products, Van Clarke recommends a tailored approach. “It’s generally best to choose shampoo for scalp and root area and choose conditioner by mid-lengths and ends,” he says. Herald says that if you’re unsure, get a consultation and take your hair stylist’s advice on the best products to invest in. “Yes, it’s bit more expensive, but you’ll receive step-by-step advice on what to use, when, and where.”
Kérastase Specifique ‘Bain Divalent’ Balancing Shampoo
Hair Type Matters
Certain hair types require a different approach when it comes to washing. “For bleached hair, you need to make sure you find a good sulphate-free moisturizing shampoo and moisturizing conditioner,” Sey advises. “This should be alternated with good protein conditioner to keep the hair strong as it is made of keratin (protein), and a purple shampoo will help to keep your color vibrant. Dandruff-prone hair will benefit from an anti-dandruff shampoo or a scalp treatment, such as Nizoral, as it is anti-fungal and removes the dandruff-causing fungus from the scalp.”
For those with afro-textured hair, dryness can be a problem as sebum doesn’t travel as easily down the shaft of curly hair. “On the flip side, under-washing can lead to a build-up of sebum close to the scalp, leading to scalp issues,” Sey says. “It’s a good idea to use a sulphate-free moisturizing shampoo when washing the hair and making sure you find both a good protein and moisturizing conditioner to keep the hair strong yet moisturized.”
If you’ve got very long locks, treating the scalp and lengths separately is particular important. “The longer the hair gets, the older it is,” Sey continues. “Therefore, for longer hair, the key is to adequately condition the hair as it gets longer, focusing the conditioner from mid-length to ends. Focus on cleansing the scalp with shampoo first, then lather the strands. Conditioner is not needed on the scalp. Taking this into consideration, washing the hair at least once a week is optimal.”