With the sun shining down on a glorious Parisian morning, I made my way backstage at the Musée Rodin ahead of Dior’s Fall/Winter 2019 show to see what really happens behind the scenes of one of fashion’s most anticipated events of the year.
Amidst the sea of makeup stations, hairstylists brandishing their tools, and models scoffing down crêpes (when in Paris) was the man of the hour: Peter Philips. Cool, calm, and collected as ever, Dior Makeup’s Creative & Image Director took five minutes away from the models’ faces to talk to me about all things beauty. From how he created the show’s Twiggy-esque look to why you’re missing out if you don’t own falsies, he revealed everything you need to know about next season’s beauty look – along with his top beauty tips, of course. You won’t find this inside scoop anywhere else.
What was the inspiration behind the Fall/Winter 2019 collection?
You know how, in the 50s and 60s, you had the “Mods” and gang members called “Teddy Boys” in England? Well, you had Teddy Girls, too – and they were the inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri. The show is very cool, inspired by London Mod girls, but translated into 2019. There are lots of tartans, dark colors, red and green check prints, little hats – even sports elements combined with rock and roll elements.
How did you translate the collection into the makeup look?
The makeup was also inspired by those Mod girls, a kind of rough-handed 60s makeup, but with a naive interpretation. It was totally inspired by Maria’s vision and mood board. She had a big mood board with lots of black and white pictures of those girls with big hair and, actually, pretty trashy makeup! Maria always likes to focus on the eyes, she’s not so much a lip girl, as you can see for yourself. She likes a big, black eye!
In the 60s, they used to draw on their lashes, but we haven’t used fake lashes or anything – just lots of mascara and a big, fat eyeliner on top, cartoon style. All the girls will be wearing little hats, so there will be a shadow over the top of their faces, and their eyes will kind of blend into the shadow. The rest of the face is pure and luminous; we really went for beautiful skin.
What key products are you using backstage?
For the skin, I used the ‘Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation’, and didn’t really powder. On the eyes, I started with the ‘Diorshow Maximizer 3D’ lash primer on the top lashes, skipped mascara on the bottom lashes, and applied two layers of the ‘Pump ‘N’ Volume Mascara’ to give a nice chunky lash that’s not too spidery – just nicely separated. We actually used the new waterproof one; I like to use waterproof because it sets the curl of the lashes.
For the drawn-on lashes, the team used the ‘Diorshow On Stage Liner’ in matte black, but I like to touch up with a cream eyeliner because it’s fast for me – I’m a painter! But most of my assistants like to work with the matte eyeliner because it’s easier to control. The lips were very natural, we just used a touch of the new ‘Dior Addict Stellar Shine’. Make sure there’s no dead skin first, then apply the ‘Mirage’ shade – it’s perfect for a natural lip.
How can we translate this makeup look into everyday life?
Really, it’s just by narrowing it down. At the end of the day, it’s really an exaggerated eyeliner and 60s eyelashes, so what you can do is draw fine lines underneath to create finer ‘lashes’, or you can do mascara on your lid or a beautiful liner. It depends. If you want to be striking and bold, you can do a big fat eyeliner and chunky lashes, or you can narrow it down and make it more wearable. The look is actually very simple. And it’s got that beautiful, radiant skin and natural lip, so it’s very easy to make it wearable if you tone it down a little bit.
The look is all about lashes. Do you think this will make false lashes trendy again?
For me, fake lashes are always in – I have so many of them! But it depends on the look you’re going for. Mascara makes lashes a bit more chunky, a bit more rock and roll, whereas lashes make things more glam, more elegant in a way. But I love a good fake lash. They can work miracles! If you apply mascara, then put fake lashes just on the ends; they really lift and elongate the eyes. They’re great for anyone with overhanging eyelids because, sometimes, mascara leaves marks on your upper lids, so just add a fake lash! Not necessarily a long one, but a beautiful full, thick one. It will actually create the effect of an eyeliner – and it doesn’t smudge!
What’s your favorite makeup trend at the moment?
There are so many trends now, you know? Makeup is just so huge right now. I think it’s all about great skin and luminosity. Luckily, we’ve passed that era when luminizers and glow palettes created like this full-faced metallic gleam – everyone has found the balance on how to achieve a beautiful glow and that, for me, is the best trend. Whatever age you are, glowing skin is flattering and beautiful. It gives a youthful and healthy appearance, but at the same time, it’s sophisticated.
Is pre-makeup prep key to achieving that glow?
Absolutely. But the products you use really depends on if you have oily or dry skin. In general, I like to use the ‘Hydra Life’ moisturizer as a base as it’s neutral – it matches most skin types. If there’s a little bit of dry skin, I like to use the ‘Dior Prestige’ oil because it really boosts hydration – and because it’s oily, it helps create that luminosity. The ‘Glow Booster’ is also a nice one, and it helps set foundation.
But like I said, it does depend on the skin type. Oh, and a good primer! I love using ‘DreamSkin’ because it makes for a really good, luminous primer. Today, we are using ‘Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear’ primer – but you don’t need it so much with face and body.
Tell us about what it’s like working with Maria?
Maria is a designer with a very strong vision, and I’m there to make sure her vision is translated into makeup. She’s clear in what she wants and, like I said, she always wants to focus on the eye, which is why you’ve seen a lot of variations of eye-makeup looks at the shows.
Her vision is clear, so it’s never complicated, you know? She knows what she wants, her inspirations are very clear, and she does amazing research. That’s why it’s actually very easy for me to go see her mood boards and come up with an idea that supports them. There are always obstacles, but it’s not complicated to find out what she wants.