"The silhouette is 18th century, but the girl has a Bowiesque feeling to her, especially in the makeup. Karl Lagerfeld sent me a sketch and it felt really like that." – Lucia Pica
For Chanel’s Spring 2019 Couture show, the past merged with the present at the Grand Palais in classic Karl Lagerfeld fashion. While the garments evoked pure 18th century opulence, the makeup was inspired by a more relevant decade: the 1980s. In a stylistic merging of Marie Antoinette and David Bowie, much caught our eye, but none more so than the striking beauty looks created by Chanel’s Global Creative Makeup and Color Designer, Lucia Pica. Between the bold textures, dark tones, and some very vibrant lips, it was an aesthetically energetic combination for the ages.
With the models’ hair poufed up to reach the highest highs and accessorized with feathery floral details, feminine drama took center stage. Thanks to images shared exclusively shared with Savoir Flair, we got a look backstage at Pica’s work and a few notes on what it took to create the beauty looks complementing all those couture masterpieces. And we’re sharing them with you, of course.
To pull off a full face of glam, the base is key. Pica – known for her ability to bring any of Lagerfeld’s visions to life – prepped the skin with ‘Hydra Beauty Micro Gel Yeux’ and the ‘Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum’ before applying a light layer of ‘Vitalumière Aqua’ foundation to ensure the rest of the makeup popped. The spirit of the 80s was then awakened through a slight hint of ‘Palette Essentielle’ blush and contour to the cheeks.
The windows to the soul, the eyes garnered much attention with their shimmery lids and a shiny finish through the use of Chanel’s ‘Le Crayon Khôl in Noir’ and ‘Les 9 Ombres in Édition N°2 Quintessence’ eyeshadow palette. Pica explained how she went about creating such a dramatic effect: “The shape of the eye is quite rounded at the top, a blended blue with a slight teal undertone. I added a sharp graphic line going underneath the eye to add a graphic strength to it. So, there is the softness of the blending of the eyeshadow on the top and the toughness of the eyeliner underneath that is straight. There is a balm shine on top of the eyelid to make it a little bit more alive and lived in.”
When channeling the 1980s, color is a welcome addition to any makeup look – and that includes the lips. For most of the models, Pica opted for a bright hue, utilizing the ‘Rouge Allure Velvet Extreme in Idéal’ paired with the ‘Rouge Allure Liquid Powder in Invincible’ to keep the lips looking just as captivating as the eyes.