Our hunt for the perfect spring scent is over, thanks to Bottega Veneta’s stunning new perfume ‘Knot Eau Absolue’. Four years after the debut of the original ‘Knot’ fragrance, Master Perfumer Daniela Andrier came back with a big, bold, beautiful olfactory bang by blending the original lavender and orange blossom notes with sweet jasmine, precious myrrh, and creamy tonka bean. The result? An opulent, oriental floral perfect to spritz on a springtime evening.
In this exclusive interview with Andrier, Savoir Flair found out all about her inspiration, her creative process, and just what makes this new scent so special.
Tomas Maier said “One of my favorite things to design each season is the ‘Knot’. It’s crazy, really, that this simple little box shape, so defined in space and functionality, lends itself to endless creative possibilities. I have compared it to a blank canvas because I really do believe there are infinite variations possible. And it is the fact of being limited that makes one so creative.” How does this principle of endless possibilities apply to the evolution of the ‘Knot’ fragrances?
As Tomas says, “the fact of being limited makes one so creative”. I think this is particularly true with a fragrance like ‘Knot’: its unique glow and femininity, far from usual stereotypes, build a timeless structure to read into a new creation, to re-invent at every new declination. Its identity is like a common thread allowing us to draw the new chapters of the story we want to tell, associating it with new materials or arranging them in a whole new variation. Playing with such a stated scent is like playing with the lights on a white sculpture, creating various emotions and shapes with a compulsory material.
The ‘Knot’ fragrances are olfactive interpretations of this tension between pure, intimate, and couture allure.
How do you see the continuity of key ingredients – neroli and lavender – as they evolve in the ever-growing ‘Knot’ fragrance story?
Neroli and lavender are resolute parts of that signature. Together in the fragrance they help build its identity and create its structure, its intrecciato. If they imprint the ‘Eau Absolue’ with a new dimension of their depth, they both perpetuate the brightness of the ‘Knot’ identity, signing its luminous, timeless glow as an imperceptible seal.
How would you describe your creative process around the ‘Knot’ fragrances as the story continues?
I would say that I try to preserve the “poetic alchemy”, as always in the ‘Knot’ fragrance’s history. That would be the key to always re-invent the fragrance, the associations and encounters of new materials while keeping its balance and a certain idea of beauty.
How would you describe the ‘Knot Eau Absolue’ fragrance?
‘Knot Eau Absolue’ is the very essential scent of ‘Knot’ in its most absolute composition.
Which olfactive family does the fragrance belong to?
Describe the structure of the fragrance, their facets, and the key raw materials you used. How do they differ to the original ‘Knot’ perfume?
In ‘Knot Eau Absolue’, the original’s heart, signed by orange blossom and lavender, imprints its deepest absolute aromas, enriched by a veil of precious myrrh, roasted tonka bean, and opoponax with an animalistic grey amber touch. The glowing and luminous floralcy of ‘Knot’ is intensified through opulent jasmine and addictive heliotrope notes, becoming even more sensual and voluptuous, simply absolute.
Describe the fragrance in three words.
Luminous, sensual, feminine.
Is there a woman you imagine wearing the fragrance?
Although sensual and very feminine, the ‘Knot’ perfumes are luminous. They differentiate themselves in the sense that they don’t carry a stereotyped vision of feminine sensuality, but something more glowing, ageless.
How does the ‘Knot’ clutch connect with the ‘Knot’ fragrances?
At the crossroads of functional and superfluous, bag and jewel, Bottega Veneta’s famous ‘Knot’ is held tight by its owner in an alluring yet intimate gesture.
What material do you like to use and how you use ingredients to develop fragrances?
I don’t have favorite ingredients – that is too limiting for a perfumer. I guess a perfumer has “periods” during which they use one or more ingredients more than others. I’m always looking for new inspiration. It is about making new associations of ingredients. In this case, all the ingredients came together to create what I would call this “poetic alchemy”. In general, I prefer to work on short structures. I don’t like to use more than I need; this is how I was trained in fragrance making. The sharper the message, the better to understand the fragrance.
The sharper the message, the better to understand the fragrance.
Can you tell us more about your process of creation?
The real creation is done with the first idea. It is difficult for me to explain how I come up with a fragrance. Those are very special moments because I am 100 percent in the story and everything becomes very evident. If the story touches me, if I like it, it becomes like an instinct, an intuition, it comes naturally and it becomes impossible afterwards, to explain why I did what I did and how.
What makes the ‘Knot’ fragrance special?
Although it is sensual and very feminine, Knot is luminous, fresh. It differentiates itself in the sense that it doesn’t carry a stereotyped vision of feminine sensuality, but something more glowing, ageless.