Walking down the black-and-white checkered runway at Dior’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018 show, models boasted a bold and monochrome beauty look that matched the setting to a T. Created by Peter Philips, it featured nude lips and neutral complexions creating the perfect canvas for dramatic eyeliner that added a touch of abstract flair to the runway.
“Surrealism is also a really important artistic movement for me. This aesthetic revolution made its mark, and it still resonates today. Salvador Dalí and Man Ray – as well as the German photographer Grete Stern – are all references for me, and I particularly appreciate their provocative vision,” explain Philips.
“Their artistic freedom inspired an extreme, excessive eye design using quotations chosen by Maria Grazia Chirui. I also wanted to emphasize the surrealist sense of humor and taste for subversion with temporary black tattoos drawn straight onto fingers, ears, and around the neck. The chosen words and messages celebrate the creative free spirit of surrealism,” he continues. These included “clef”, “liberté”, “contradiction”, “L’Art”, “ Bal Masqué”, and “Miroir”. Discover the key products used backstage and how to get the look with these tips from Peter Philips.
Skin was kept simple; it was all about that gorgeous glow and a dewy, fresh face. As Philips says, it focused on a “natural, luminous complexion enhanced using ‘Diorskin Forever Ever Wear Primer’ applied first, followed by ‘Diorskin Forever Undercover Foundation”. He also used “a few drops of ‘Diorskin Forever Undercover Concealer’ to add light and subtle correction” before sweeping the face with “a very light veil of Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Loose Powder”.
“I was inspired by the surrealist works imprinted in my memory as well as some very strong film images,” Philips explains. “With the new matte black ‘Diorshow on Stage Liner’, which is a perfect tool, I created a graphic projection of the eyelashes by over-exaggerating them in the extreme. Long, precise lashes were draw onto the upper and lower eyelids, framing the eyes and stretching excessively towards the temples.”
He then went on to apply the ‘Diorshow Khôl Beige’ to the lower waterline to open the eyes, as well as the lash line to contrast with the liner. “Last of all, I subtly defined the eyebrows using ‘Sourcils Poudre’ pencil and ‘Diorshow Bold Brow’ for a beautiful finish,” he adds.
“Lips looked natural and were prepared using the ‘Lip Maximizer’, then given a slight hint of color with ‘Lip Glow in Pink or Matte Pink’,” Philips explains.