With the start of a new season fast approaching, now is the time to invest in Fall/Winter 2016’s hottest makeup hues and perfecting products. Savoir Flair sat down with MAC’s Senior Makeup Artist for the Middle East and India, Vimi Joshi, to find out just what we should be buying for our beauty bags to nail the five biggest trends of the upcoming season.
“This season, the key word is ‘individuality’. It’s all about celebrating one’s own features and style,” explains Joshi. “It’s either about being super strict and making it all about structure or it’s about being loose, creating a mood or an emotion through the skin. These are the two biggest movements in makeup at the moment.”
The Trend: Sharp
The key to this trend is the dark-red lip. “The color story this season is all about deep reds. Think: oxblood, burgundy, and maroon set against groomed brows and strobed skin,” Joshi explains. The twist? Texture and shape combine to make the mouth a work of art – a statement feature that’s cool and modern.
Using retro-matte shades or high-shine lacquered glosses, full lips and sweetheart mouths were created at shows like Marni, Max Mara, and Gareth Pugh, to name a few. “I call it ‘minimal glam makeup’,” says Tom Pecheux. “Skin worked very simply: no brows, no eyes. The girls should look the way they are, just uniquely adorned with this very intense lip.” So, when it comes to choosing your lip color this season, go bold or go home.
The Trend: Razor
“This trend is all about an ‘anti-glamour movement’. It’s very graphic with a punky, grungy feel,” Joshi says. Think: lots of graphic black lines, dark eyes, and sharp shapes that are still feminine whilst being rebellious and intense. Skin is kept fresh and clean, brows are gorgeously groomed, and lips are left au naturel to really make dark eyes the focus of the look. As MAC’s Director of Makeup Artistry Terry Barber explains, “It’s a rebellion against the generic smoky eye of social media. There is nothing production-line about these eyes.” Ladies, it’s time to get out that kohl liner.
The Trend: Kaleidoscope
The must-have beauty accessory of the season? Glitter. And lots of it. Seen sparkling on eyes and skin at the runway shows of Charlotte Olympia, Holly Fulton, and Vetements, this season’s adornment is described by Joshi as “jewelry for the face”. The precise lines and shapes make skin three dimensional and accentuate features with bold embellishments.
Unlike the saturated hues seen at the spring/summer shows, fall’s glitters and metallics are described by Lyne Desnoyers, MAC’s Executive Director of Makeup Artistry, as “controlled and highly technical”. Worn alone or with splashes of bright color, this trend is all about getting creative with different shades and textures to bring your beauty look to life. “There is nothing spontaneous or haphazard in their application,” adds Desnoyers.
The Trend: Stained
“Stained is all about lived-in makeup, going against that Instagram idea of perfection to keep things real,” says Joshi of this gorgeously dirty and earthy trend. The antidote to the sharp lines of the Razor trend, this look focuses on worn-in kohl and smudged shadows – makeup that looks like you’ve slept in it, like it has melted into your skin. Forget those dated smoky eyes that require product to be placed perfectly. It’s now all about the imperfections, the smudges, and the stains, complemented perfectly by natural, effortless skin.
The Trend: Diffuse
Soft, seamless, blurred, and frayed – these are just some of the ways to describe this season’s most natural beauty look. “This is about the movement of makeup, letting it melt into the skin for a real, romantic feel,” describes Joshi. Forget over-contouring, highlighting, and piling on the products. For now, it’s about subtle ways of softening skin and making makeup more “real”.
“We don’t want to see that trickery of highlights and contours now; it just smacks of social-media makeup,” says makeup artist Val Garland. How was this look achieved? As Desnoyers explains, “We’re working in real-skin textures, gently bringing out the bone structure of the face through very fine layers in textures of cream, powder, and gloss. This is ‘no-makeup makeup’ taken to another level, a new way to interpret ‘real beauty’.”