Backstage at Dior’s Fall 2016 Couture show, models were made up with lashings of liner reminiscent of Cleopatra herself, infusing the show with a strong pharaoh feel. Focusing on the eyes, Creative and Image Director for Christian Dior Makeup Peter Philips created a graphic eyeliner look, but changed it up according to each individual eye shape. “I wanted to create, for more than 40 looks, a free variation on eyeliner. It was a challenge to customize the look each time in an unusual and audacious way, creating makeup that was made to measure, just like haute couture is,” he explains.
Alternating between strong black lines and a stunning golden, gleaming eye color, no liner look was the same – every model rocked a unique eye shape on the runway.
Scroll down for tips on how to recreate the look yourself and to shop the key products used backstage.
“Whether exaggerated, underlined, framed, or ringed, the eyes were the dominant feature. Eyeliner was drawn on in a confirmed and sophisticated graphic style,” explains Philips, who used the ‘Diorshow Pro-liner in Pro Black’ and the ‘Diorshow Artpen in Catwalk Black’ to create the precise lines.
To complement the touches of gold in the décor and reflect the runway silhouettes, he also used the ‘Addict Fluid Shadow in Phenix’ to add gold to the makeup palette. This was “applied with a brush in broad gold color blocking to obtain a dramatic gold, textured effect”.
To bring the look to life, lashes were coated with the ‘Diorshow Maximizer 3D’ before the ‘Diorshow Iconic Overcurl’ mascara was applied, and brows were tidied and defined using both the ‘All-In-Brow 3D’ kit and the ‘Diorshow Brow Styler Gel’, creating an elegant and classic counterpoint to the graphic eyes.
Describing the models’ complexions as “fresh” and “natural”, Philips prepped skin with the ‘Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear’ primer and then used the ‘Diorskin Forever’ fluid foundation to add light and radiance to the face. He then set the makeup with a dusting of the ‘Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Loose Powder’ before adding a gentle pop of the ‘DiorBlush Edition Splendor 671’ to cheeks for a subtle flush of color.
“The lips looked completely natural. A dab of ‘Fix It’ neutralized lip color, then I applied a blend of ‘Dior Addict Lip Glow Pomade’ and ‘Dior Addict Lip Glow in Pink’ for discreet color and soft shine,” explains Philips.
Finally, Philips created two different nail looks to match the different eye looks: “Nails were neutral apart from those models wearing gold eyeliner, who had their toenails painted in the same shade of gold using ‘Dior Vernis Splendor Edition Golden 328’.”
Dior makeup created and styled by Peter Philips.
Photography: Vincent Lappartient for Christian Dior Parfums