Dior’s Spring 2016 Couture show saw two classic, timeless beauty looks making their way down the runway — the bold red lip and the winged liner. Two of Savoir Flair’s all-time favorite makeup looks, we got the low-down on the products and techniques used backstage to create them.
“This diaphanous beauty displays eyes emphasized with black eyeliner combined with a nude lip, while some models put in appearances displaying scarlet lips set against a flawless complexion,” explains Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-up. “Only a few groups of models, in the middle and at the end of the show, wore an intense shade of red lipstick. The idea was to create a “coup de Trafalgar” and revive the memory of the red looks thus named by Christian Dior, who would send these flamboyant designs out in the middle of a show to take the audience by surprise.”
As Philips explains, “the two looks share a pale and luminous complexion. I blended the ‘Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation’ into the skin to even it out and illuminate. A few touches of the ‘Diorskin Star Concealer’ and a light dusting of ‘Poudre Nude Air’ added the finishing touches to this flawless complexion.”
“The upper eyelid was heightened by applying the ‘Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof black eyeliner’ at the lash line. The horizontal line lengthens the eye,” explains Philips. ”Next I emphasized lashes to obtain a really thick, heavy lash. First I coated them with the ‘Diorshow Maximiser 3D’, then I applied multiple coats of black mascara, alternating between ‘Diorshow Designer’, which creates density, and ‘Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof’, which maintains good curl in the lashes. For the nude eye on the second look, I used the light, iridescent shade from the center of the 5-Couleurs Palette in Escapade. Applied to the entire eyelid, it gives the eyes a gentle, natural light.”
“The first look has an unobtrusive lip — we simply applied the neutral shade of ‘Fix It’ to revive the natural lip color. The second look, on the other hand, has a fiery red lip – the famous ‘Coup de Trafalgar’ in a nod to Christian Dior’s shows,” Philips tells us. “I outlined the lips with the ‘Crayon Contour Lèvres in Rouge Royal’, then I applied ‘Fabuleuse’, the highly pigmented red shade of the ‘Diorific Mat’. Next, to create the shaded effect, I added a darker touch of ‘Crayon Contours Lèvres in Prune Troublant’, blended with the deep red ‘Diorific Mat Troublante’, to the center of the lower lip,” he explains, “blending the edges a little bit so that the lip line wasn’t sharply defined, but just a little bit blurred.”
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