Rabanne Goes Radically Maximal for Spring/Summer 2024 | Savoir Flair

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Paris Fashion Week
Rabanne Goes Radically Maximal for Spring/Summer 2024
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by Grace Gordon 3-minute read September 28, 2023

Minimalism? I don't know her.

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In defiance of the pared-back runways elsewhere during Fashion Month, Rabanne Spring/Summer 2024 was decidedly not minimal, not safe, and not commercial. The caveat is: I have trouble picturing who these clothes are for, but to be certain, they look fabulous. Absolutely bedazzled surfaces glisten on every look, and the mood was very Dune/desert rave/elite warrior princess. At times, this erred on the side of costume, but at least it was fully embracing fashion fantasy with a clearly defined character type and truly astonishing couture-level details. 

In previous seasons, Creative Director Julien Dossena has sprinkled in Rabanne’s signature chainmail dresses and even did a long, silver sequin version for Beyoncé on her Renaissance tour. Now, he’s gone and dedicated a whole collection to the iconic statement-making piece that first debuted in 1966 as part of house Founder Paco Rabanne’s Twelve Unwearable Dresses collection. In reference to a knight’s historical armor for battle, the chainmail dress feels both fashion-forward and allied with the past. For Spring/Summer 2024, this signature design is rooted in more wearable forms, like flexible small-link hoodies, minis, and hooded dresses with decorative beaded chains and metal fringe finishings. 

Also in the mix were fabulous dresses made of sequined loops of fabric (as in the case of Look Five worn by Mona Tougaard), lace-together jackets with embroidered lapels, peekaboo cotton tanks with tinseled trim, shredded knits, and hoodies embedded with oversized gold and silver baubles. There were a few fur-trimmed outfits as well, but one with fur trousers was a little too Mr. Tumnus for my taste and made the model look like she was cosplaying as a Narnian faun. The collection’s accessories blended seamlessly into the glittering, reflective aspects of the clothes, featuring gladiator sandals with millipede straps crawling up the leg, filigreed neckerchiefs, giant toe rings, and minimal metal belts with sculptural buckles. 

Once again, Rabanne strikes a unique balance between Space Age futurism and historical elements.


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Once again, Rabanne strikes a UNIQUE balance between Space Age futurism and historical elements.

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