Drop the skincare routine, Miu Miu!
After 30 years, the Miu Miu girl is still the coolest girl in the room. So much so that if you want to know how most of the fashionable set will be dressing next season, look to Prada and Miu Miu – the current number one and number two luxury fashion brands in the world, respectively, according to Lyst. Miuccia Prada’s kingdom of style is so influential that it has informed looks across the Spring/Summer 2024 shows at a myriad of other houses. Miuccia, an agenda-setting powerhouse designer who shares Creative Direction duties at Prada with Raf Simons, has never had her finger “on the pulse.” That would mean she’s doing what’s current and now. Instead, she is predicting and interpreting future tastes. I would give anything to take a stroll through her brain.
Right now, her thoughts are preoccupied with subverting prep-school codes, finding new ways to develop the micro mini, and bringing a lived-in feel to clothing by employing distressed and washed finishes and a thrown-together feel to the styling. Right away, the collection read very “broquette,” a term coined by Alexi Alario – one-third of the fascinating fashion podcast Nymphet Alumni – which is a blend of “bro” and “coquette” codes. The Miu Miu girl is masc-femme. She’s dude and dudette. She’s a sports-loving dweeb. She is a contradiction. She contains multitudes.
At Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024, board shorts were worn low on the hips and were paired with intentionally sloppy layers of polos and prep-school blazers, and colorful bandaids that gave a rough and tumble appearance that pierced the illusion of youthful invincibility. The clothes were high-end versions of early aughts mall rat attire. Sort of. The popular kids of my 2001 graduating class who were decked in Hollister and Abercrombie & Fitch never looked this cool. Styling was key to the overall look, especially in the case of swimming costumes paired with cocktail dresses, cracked gold pieces worn with striped rugby shirts, and a frilly blouse worn and shrunken swim shorts combo. It was so eclectic that it felt unplanned and unstyled, which is an enticing way to think about clothes. Stop trying. Let the layers fall where they may. Just as the Y2K craze has peaked, Miuccia finds new and exciting ways to draw us right back in.
The Miu Miu girl is MASC-FEMME. She’s DUDE and DUDETTE. She’s a SPORTS-LOVING DWEEB. She is a contradiction. SHE CONTAINS MULTITUDES.