Miu Miu Does a Purpose-Driven Collection for Spring/Summer 2023
Miuccia Prada knows not to waste a fashion moment. “This collection is about fashion born from reality, and born for reality, to be placed back into that context. Because times are difficult, it does not mean we should not create. But we have to ensure every piece has purpose and reason. This is not a time for meaningless fashion,” she reasoned in the show notes. This meant a steady-as-she-goes rationale for continuing the low-waist theme that has come to reign at Miu Miu the past two seasons.
For Spring/Summer 2023, it was beefed up with bulging square pockets that were either embedded into the outfits or worn separately like bum bags. Styling was simple and clean thanks to the work of Lotto Volkova. The classic Miu Miu schoolgirl aesthetic was at the heart of it all, but this time around it felt less mischievous and more mysterious, especially on sensational stars like FKA Twigs who wore a ribbed navy sweater that zipped up the back and a black skirt with Kunoichi shoes at the finale.
Aside from the low-waist trousers and micro mini skirts, it was Miu Miu’s leather pieces and outerwear that won top marks. Leathers came in a burnished finish and oozed a confident cool. A dove grey leather top with a tan leather apron skirt over it was one of my favorite looks. I also particularly loved the layered cotton, silk, and cashmere pieces that started to show, because I think that’s a Y2K style that’s often been overlooked by designers who are currently mining the era for inspiration. Of course, it wouldn’t be Miu Miu without a little sheer paneling decorated in crystals, and these pieces came out worn over bralettes and matching boxer briefs. Bags were sturdy and square, while most ensembles were paired with Kunoichi footwear in every color of the rainbow. They looked particularly cool in neon when worn with neutral tops and bottoms.
There was more to this show than meets the eye.
But there was more to this show than meets the eye. For the casting, Miu Miu showed the collection on all genders as a means of challenging convention and embracing a new reality. Artist Shuang Li supplied a spoken word poem over a soundscape by musician Eli Osheyack, while a flood of digitally lit billboards created a visual score for the film that moved from cascades of lights to blood moons. It cast a futuristic mood over the whole procession.