"Hand-me-downs" never looked so glamorous.
The act of inheritance is not just a simple handover but a metamorphic process. Within this cycle, belongings are redefined, adapting to the evolving nuances of each generation. This Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Maison Margiela artfully captures this journey of self-discovery, as seen through the prismatic lens of an inherited wardrobe passed from one generation to the next. Centered on the ongoing characters of Count and Hen, Creative Director John Galliano rewinds to their origin story – a fateful encounter between Count and Hen’s parents aboard a ship bound for America. Their union of opposites, of industry and aristocracy, will later spawn the offspring who are central to Margiela’s narrative.
The voyage, hinted at through a digital projection of a transatlantic ship, breathes life into the collection’s atmospherics, personalities, and sartorial treasures. In an ode to the present-day instinct to redefine and reinterpret articles of the past, dresses embrace the art of exfoliation. Delicately deconstructed bustiers unveil their intricate innards, layered elegantly over skirts and adorned with a tactile finish. This craftsmanship mirrors the novel 'pressage' technique, where garments are artistically pressed, preserving their natural contours and imperfections. Gowns are festooned with glinting bow fragments, while some silhouettes break convention with raw, ad-hoc stitches.
Every cut and fold is a testament to the silent language garments communicate, echoing our gestures. The house’s signature Rorschach cutting manifests in the form of intricate dotting on an organza skirt, while outerwear seamlessly melds masculine and feminine fashion vocabularies, producing iconic coats with sculpted basques. Volumes envelop the form, and are clutched closed by the models, each inhabiting a mysterious and whimsical character in the Count and Hen story. It is with magical thinking and a suspension of reality that Galliano once again achieves new creative heights for Margiela.
This Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Maison Margiela ARTFULLY captures this journey of self-discovery, as seen through the PRISMATIC lens of an inherited wardrobe passed from one generation to the next.