Nicolas Ghesquière’s ode to French style for Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2023 had a determinedly futuristic outlook.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s ode to French style for Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2023 had such a determinedly futuristic outlook that if you were searching for common French tropes, you’d better look elsewhere. Instead, he focused his conceptual homage on eccentric and mind-bending updates on the classics.
Wool coats were actually a trick of the eye, made from painted leather, sweet pinstriped pinafores bore a stiff trapezoidal shape at the hemline, trousers billowed and ballooned, and pleated separates were given bubbling hems. Detailwork was dense and intense. One pair of leather pants was hand-painted and stitched with sequins. Dresses that at first glance looked like tattered lace were actually sheer fabrics covered in fuzzy, amorphous blob shapes that were set with silver studs. Each look bore a collage of materials: textured leathers, shaggy carpet brocades, paisley, shearling, latex, sequins, and lace.
Hodge-podge styling paired the garments with thin belts, opera gloves, skinny scarves, shawls, and more. If this was “French style” it was of the more bohemian, eccentric variety, updated with modern twists and futuristic turns.
Meanwhile, social media went crazy for the LV replica bags, like one version done as a lifelike rendering of the Louis Vuitton shop at Place Vendôme or another done as a street sign bearing the house’s name and date of founding. They’re certainly eye-catching, evidenced by Jaden Smith making a buzz on Twitter when he showed up to the presentation carrying a version from Spring/Summer 2023.
Technical excellence aside, the styling of the show tripped up some of the finer looks but taken on their own each garment radiated Ghesquière’s obsession with future-craft. Perhaps it is not a simple ode to French styling, but a deeper investigation as to what the French look has lent fashion as a whole, and an examination of what it can be when extrapolated to its logical conclusion.