Witty details, easier silhouettes, and fantastic accessories made this a Loewe collection worth paying attention to.
Inside a blazing white arena, punctuated by Lynda Benglis’s giant metallic sculptures, the Loewe Spring/Summer 2024 collection was revealed. In the show, there was a strong fil rouge from Creative Director Jonathan Anderson’s previous seasons, but the complexities of the past were refined and lightened – still witty but more digestible. Working through a tension between structure and fluidity, Anderson brought some of his familiar signatures forward – unexpected silhouettes, strange proportions, bulky fabrics – and simplified them.
The tropes of the collection borrowed liberally from prep school style but subverted it. This meant macro knit capes that cocooned the body, ultra high-waist trousers (nearly identical to the versions he showed at Spring 2024 Menswear), leather coats with high pockets, polos and polo dresses with air-brushed shadows, and double-collared pullovers. A sculptural draped dress was modified from two seasons ago, featuring rounded bosoms instead of spiky spires. The popular “Polly Pocket” separates from last season were loosened and lengthened and featured jagged, unfinished edges like someone had snipped a few inches off right before the show. The most-talked-about pieces from the show were a series of sublime coats that were stitched with tote bags so that the coat and bag were inseparable.
Accessories were right on the money. The bags were particularly gorgeous, especially the scrunchy totes with gold chain attachments and the sequin-beaded shoulder bags. Footwear featured micro-sequined flats, felted shoes that looked like they were covered in clods of dirt, Mary Janes, and tourist sandals with swayback kitten heels. Sculpture artist Benglis designed the jewelry, which meant liquid spills of crystal made into rings, ear cuffs, and amorphous bangles.
With each season, Loewe's visual language grows stronger and easier to read, but its sense of humor and oddball POV never changes.
With each season, LOEWE'S visual language grows stronger and easier to read, but its sense of humor and oddball POV NEVER CHANGES.