Gucci Fall/Winter 2023 presented a melange of “greatest hits” borrowed from the past reigns of Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele.
In the interim, while we await the debut collection of Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno for Spring/Summer 2024, the house’s design team has been tasked with carrying on. Gucci Fall/Winter 2023 presented a melange of “greatest hits” borrowed from the past reigns of Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele. The show notes described it as, “a free expression founded in collective memories that blur the lines of time…an illustration of the beating heart of Gucci: the ecosystem of designers and artisans whose shared understanding of the House has passed down and evolved from creative to creative for over a century.”
While Gucci might trade Creative Directors from time to time – each making a significant impact on the house – the consistency of Gucci is its ability to tap into the pulse of culture. This is why the collection felt at times like a hodgepodge, but the fil rouge was always the supreme Gucci-ness of each look taken on an individual basis.
An early aughts mood was set by elements like crystal-encrusted metal bras, fish scale sequin cover-ups, and mohair polos paired with below-the-hip velvet trousers (ala Ford). A 90s revival radiated through a new take on the trapezoid chain bag, trimmed in horsebit and decorated in everything from padding and shearling to crystal and contrast leather. Outerwear was manifestly good throughout the collection, done in muppet-like colorful loop yarns, skunk-striped furs, and shaggy plumes. Several stately coats bore brightly colored fur cuffs and collars. On the complete opposite side of the collections’ favored early aughts styles were a variety of everyday looks where every element was oversized and slouchy. They felt insouciant and cool, but were outliers among the rest of the collection’s vivid splash and sparkle.
In-between collections are always tricky, but Gucci’s design team headed the challenge off at the pass by serving up what we already know and love from the brand with a twist.